Shanghai Food & Drink Gossip: September 2024

By Sophie Steiner, September 25, 2024

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As we head into Golden Week, we’ll keep this month’s gossip column short and sweet – so you can score the info you need and be on your merry way to whatever beachside villa awaits you. 

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Zup Pizza Bar. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The biggest news of the month is the reopening of beloved Chicago pizza joint Zup Pizza Bar, which is slated for an early October start in its new digs on Shaanxi Bei Lu in Jing’an, up the street from the old Rooster haunt. 

READ MORE: Zup Pizza: A Chicago Hou-Lee Trinity of Dough, Sauce & Cheese

After shutting its doors a year ago, owners Wayne Hou and Lee Tseng kept the brand alive through popups across the city.

Those popups have now turned into a rebirth of a new brick-and-mortar store with omakase bar-style seating for 20 people.

Here, hungry patrons can watch the pizza making process up close, with front façade bench seating luring in even more passers-by. 

The menu will push out thin crust slices and Sicilian squares along with whole pizzas, shared plates, smash burgers, and sandos. 

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Image courtesy of Sapore di Pane

Sapore di Pane Bistro has expanded further afield with a new bistro in Xuhui Vanke Plaza on Humin Lu.

Hailing from Alessandria in Piedmont, the brand specializes in bakery products, coffee, Italian wine, and traditional Italian cuisine and gelato, and spread from dozens of stores across Europe to its first flagship location in China at Shanghai’s Columbia Circle in 2019.

Founded by Lixin Guo, an Italian-Chinese dining expert with over 30 years of experience working in Italy, the venue’s motto exemplifies his cross-cultural food experience by “building a cultural bridge between China and Italy through creative food.”

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Image via Dianping for Sapore di Pane

The bistro is more than just an Italian restaurant  it showcases all aspects of Italian lifestyle, from homemade pasta to fresh, baked-daily focaccia to artisanal Italian desserts, with a side pour of Italian aperitifs and wine.

With seating for 60 inside and another 40 outside, a visit to the new bistro is ideal at any hour of the day, and for occasions spanning Italian brunch to a casual lunch, from happy hour to an evening date.

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Image courtesy of The Fire

THEFIRE is a premier grill located in REEL Mall boasting a greenery-filled terrace that emulates the sun-soaked coasts of the Med.

Every flame-inspired bite reflects a Mediterranean family gathering spirit, with dishes like arroz de mariscos (Portuguese seafood rice), pizza, roasted chicken, grilled skewers, and signature tiramisu served across the 70-seater space.

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Image courtesy of Ting

Ex-Da Vittorio pastry chef Frederic Jaros and wife Xinxin Wu opened two-story VERIE Bakehouse (standing for Very Effortless Refined Inspiring Everyday) in Xintiandi in early August, with the first floor bakery serving up Michelin-level baked goods, featuring viennoiseries (French style ‘bready’ breakfast pastries) and birthday cakes.

But the real fun happens when you enter a hidden door behind the bakery that leads to the second floor – called Ting – for a pastry-inspired, reservation-only chef’s table, that is currently in soft opening. 

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Image courtesy of Ting

Think a full 'pastry-inspired cuisine' 10-course set menu for RMB988 (with an optional wine pairing for RMB588) that spans savory to sweet, with each dish involving some pastry element included in innovative, whimsical ways. 

And the name Ting?

It comes from chef Frederic Jaros’s initials – FJ – that resemble the Chinese character 厅, found in the words 餐厅, 展厅, 剧院厅 (restaurant, showroom, theater) – reflecting the ethos of the chef’s table dining experience as one that will extend beyond the commonplace restaurant experience into a space of unlimited imagination. 

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Image courtesy of Tako

Backed by Ting Ting and the rest of the team behind now shuttered 'alternative' venue Roxie, comes Tako – the ultimate sanctuary for tattoo lovers, piercing enthusiasts, and cocktail fans.

A grand opening party took place this past Saturday at the new venue’s digs on Shaanxi Bei Lu in Jing’an  a celebration of body art and self-expression coupled with edgy ‘kocktails’ curated by the team’s passionate ‘liquid artists.’

Tako is all about embracing the bold spirit of Shanghai’s tattoo community, creating a space where ink and cocktails flow freely.

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Image via Dianping for Madre 

A new venue from the Yumni Group (Jamoteca, Fukusushi, Mivahato, Da Vittorio Shanghai, and Scilla), Madre opened last week amidst a typhoon – yet still chock-full of sugar high-seeking guests.

With a stacked menu befitting any Italian bakery, offerings range from cornetto, bombolone, and fresh baked focaccia to maritozzo, savarin, and pizzette.

There are also numerous cakes, breads, and savory treats, covering all the carb bases. 

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Osteria Twelve 16. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Hilton Shanghai City Center reopened this month following a full refurb and revamp, including the opening of Osteria Twelve 16 – an Italian restaurant on the first floor that resembles an elegant Italian garden.

The restaurant creates a cozy and relaxed dining atmosphere by dividing the venue up into three main areas for guests to enjoy throughout the day.

The main dining area, Al Forno, features a large forno (‘oven’ in Italian) plus an open kitchen where guests can watch the chefs in action. 

The baking and dessert area, Mascarpone, is named after the creamy Italian cheese, offering freshly made bread, pastries, and gelato in flavors like chocolate, strawberry, vanilla, tiramisu, and pistachio. 

Finally, the bar and coffee area, The Espresso Bar, serves a variety of Italian espresso and cocktails, providing a space for guests to enjoy light conversations and drinks, from morning coffee to afternoon tea to cocktails at night.

READ MORE: A Legend Returns! Grand Opening of Hilton Shanghai City Center

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Chef Yann Klein (left) and Chef Eric Pras (right) at Maison Lameloise. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Onto a bit of a chef shuffle: Alexandre Tanton has taken the reigns from Yann Klein at Maison Lameloise in Shanghai Tower; and , Gabriele Delgross, executive chef at 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, will pass on the torch to Nicoló Rotella as he makes the move to Armani in mid-October. 

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Commune Social's famed Peanut & Red Fruit Dessert. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Onto closures; after more than a decade-long run, neighborhood modern tapas restaurant Commune Social shut its doors for good this month.

The brainchild of acclaimed chef Jason Atherton, the design-centric establishment was all about making fine dining accessible and fun.

It will surely be missed. 

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Dosage. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Bakery and wine bar Dosage on Julu Lu has also closed, but the Yuyuan Lu location is still open. 

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Chef Tom Ryu (previously of Jeju Sagye). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The most difficult high-end Korean fusion restaurant to snag a reservation at back in the day, Jeju Sagye recently closed, with the majority of the team, including the mastermind of the operation, Chef Tom Ryu, having moved on to other venues.

Namely NABI...

READ MORE: NABI: Chef Tom Ryu's Korean Fine Dining Masterwork

... and WULI...

READ MORE: WULI: A Genuine Taste of Koreatown in Downtown

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Khan Chacha. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Contemporary Indian and Middle Eastern restaurant Khan Chacha has shut up shop in both Parkson Mall and Westgate Mall.

Finally, Original Sin on Wuding Lu (the evening popup bar in Circle’s space) is popping up no more due to a dispute between the two venues. 


Got a hot tip? Feel free to email all juicy rumors to sophiesteiner@thatsmags.com. 

Read more Shanghai Food & Drink Gossip.

[Cover image via tricycle.org]

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