The iconic craggy peaks of Yangshuo County became a backpacker staple in the early 1990s, when the town reached the radar of rock climbers, package tours and independent travelers enthralled by the karst formations of this once sleepy village by the waters of the Li River. As Yangshou has grown, some say the quiet charm of the place has dissipated, but, despite the construction sites and bulldozers common the country over, there are still ways to capture the lingering rural essence of the area; devoid of tourists and that all too familiar drilling sound.
So what are the best ways to experience the real heartland of Yangshuo? We took to the saddle to find out.
Arriving at the Bike Asia’s shop in central Yangshuo we were greeted by one of their top guides, Alex. A Yangshuo native, there was probably no one better to showcase the best of the region. We chose and were measured for bikes and were then asked about our cycling level and whether we were happy crossing hills, water and a bit of rough terrain – a resonant yes to all. We were after a real adventure, and very much up for a muddy biking experience. Setting off through the cobbled town center, we quickly took a path out of the fracas and within minutes found ourselves wheeling along the Li River.
As the noise of town faded into the background, replaced by fishing boats drifting down the river with their latest catch, we felt life finally slowing down. Already going up and down hills and under trees, the tranquility we’d been searching for washed over us as we descended down a rocky hill towards the river and a waiting boatman.
Equipped with a stove to make his lunch and not a lot more than a box of cigarettes, he gestured us on board with our bicycles. As Alex told us, the man traverses the river all day taking tourists and locals to FuLi, a small market town some eight kilometers away on the other side of the river.
Leaving the boat, our muscles feeling their first hammering as we negotiated a steep hill into a small copse, it took us several minutes (while grappling with gear changes and sharp intakes of breath) to realize we were in the middle of a persimmon plantation. The orange fruits hung like golden prizes from the trees above us, creating the perfect autumnal canopy.
Clearly, living in Guangxi Province enhances your tree climbing skills. Within seconds, Alex was looking down at us from the top of a tree, picking off some of the ripe persimmons and throwing us a couple to taste right there and then – a juicy, sweet reminder of nature and its many gifts.
Back on the path, Alex chatted to us about the rural lives of the local farmers. Weather conditions in the region, he told us, are becoming unpredictable, meaning less certainty around the crops and if - or when - they will arrive. As we traversed the rolling hills a few kilometers later, lush greenery surrounding us, we heard lots of shouting, laughing and the sound of things hitting the ground. We’d moved on from persimmon territory to pomelo country.
Among the trees, three women were pulling the bounty down and throwing the less desirable fruits to the ground. They laughed and cackled as they shouted at eachother through the shrubs, and then threw a few pomelos down to us when they saw us stop. Ever prepared, Alex produced a small kit containing knives and peeling equipment. We tucked into the pomelos, well known for their benefits to digestion, high blood pressure and the immune system.
A short ride later, we arrived in the somewhat sleepy village of FuLi. Primarily known for its scenic riverside location, the hamlet is also famed as the home of the Chinese paper fan. We were largely unbothered as we looked into a few shops selling paintings and other trinkets and soon sat down for a lunch of spicy noodles.
Later on, as we passed many handsome hectares of sugar cane and stopped to admire a farmer harvesting sesame plants and rice, we realized it had been long since we had last been in an area so rich in vegetation and crops - the irony being that this is what the majority of China actually looks like.
It might just be a temporary getaway, but a day spent cycling in Yangshuo offers the perfect opportunity to escape from urban living and explore the often forgotten landscape of rural China.
// Bike Asia offers a variety of tours which can be tailored to your ability levels and prices start from around USD40 for a one day tour of Yangshou, up to USD995 for a seven day tour of the mountains and minorities of Guilin.
www.bikeasia.com
If you’ve still got some energy!
Walking
We highly recommend a trip to Moon Hill. Not a difficult ascent by any means, you can climb the stairs of this iconic Yangshuo landmark in approximately 30 minutes for a great view of the surrounding scenery. The hill, which is essentially a large rock formation with a hole through the top, can be seen for miles around. Although it’s only some 200 meters high, if it’s a clear day, you’ll get some great photos. Moon Hill is around eight kilometers from Yangshuo Town – or closer if you’re staying nearby. There is an entrance fee of RMB15 to get to the start of the trail.
Hiking
If two wheels are not your thing, hiking opportunities in Yangshuo are plentiful and can offer rewarding panoramas. Yangshuo Insider offers a three to four-hour guided hike through a largely unknown area of the local countryside and doesn’t publicize the route, ensuring a walk uninterrupted by other tourists. The hike starts at Shi Ban Qiao farming village and ends at Yulong Bridge, traversing through old farming hamlets, lush mountain scenery, a reservoir where you’ll see people fishing and keeping buffaloes, more fruit plantations and some swimming areas on the Yulong River. // www.yangshuo-insider.com
Rock Climbing
Rock climbing is another, perhaps obvious activity in the area - you’ll see plenty of people scaling. Karst Climber is an expert rock climbing company that can guide kids and adults with different abilities. The number of climbing routes and possibilities in Yangshou is almost limitless, so whether you’re a beginner or a climbing daredevil, these guys will help you find your ideal spot. Climbing in Yangshuo is possible all year round but recommended between March – May and September – December. // www.karstclimber.com
// Book tickets to Guilin from Shanghai through CTrip and ask your hotel to organize a transfer from the airport.
Among the many accommodations, try Yangshuo Mountain Retreat (below). The perfect riverside haven, it has fantastic staff who will help you organize whatever you feel like doing during your trip // www.yangshuomountainretreat.com
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