Shanghai Food & Drink Gossip: March 2024

By Sophie Steiner, March 26, 2024

As predicted, post-CNY has provided a preposterous number of new restaurant openings.

And we’re all here for it.

First up, there’s the city’s latest fixation on sandwiches, with not one but two heavy hitters – Sub Standard and Rozebiff – swinging their doors open within a matter of weeks of each other, both backed by ex-fine dining chefs who have traded in their monogrammed jackets for oven mitts.

Sub Standard. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The former, Sub Standard, is brought to us by Chef Jason Oakley (previously of David Laris’ self-titled Three on the Bund restaurant, Fifty 8º Grill at the Mandarin Oriental, Coquille & Scarpetta, and Cages).

A humble sandwich and pizza shop on Wanhangdu Lu, Sub Standard is reminiscent of the neighborhood sandwich storefronts that dot every corner of San Francisco – near where Oakley worked as chef de partie at three Michelin star French Laundry before crossing the Pacific to Shanghai almost a lifetime ago.

All bread is baked in house, along with made-to-order pizzas, focaccia, and Sicilian slices.

Rozebiff. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Just a few short weeks later, ex-Da Vittorio Sous Chef and Chicago native Jimmy Shi opened up Rozebiff on Shanxi Bei Lu with partner Edison Liang.

A microcosm of the American Midwest, Rozebiff is a nostalgic ode to the suburban neighborhood corner sandwich shop, right here in Shanghai.

Here, they crank out Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, a sacrosanct entity in the eyes of every Chicagoan, and the eponymous sandwich of this establishment.

There’s also a righteous Philly Cheesesteak and a roster of other bangers.

One sandwich shop isn’t better than the other; they are two different types of sandwiches. And we’ve got room in our hearts (and stomachs) for both.

Smokin' Hog. Image courtesy of Smokin' Hog

In other American food news, Smokin' Hog is taking over Post No Bills' old digs, slated to open mid-April.

Backed by restaurateurs and married couple Nacho Virgen and Karina Sasmita, this Texas BBQ joint will be serving up everything from their signature smoked USDA Prime brisket to smoked maple pork belly, from butter caramel Iberico pork ribs to brisket barbacoa... and everything in between.

While the name Smokin' Hog may be familiar (they've made quite the showing on the popup market scene), this is the team’s first brick-and-mortar store.

They are also simultaneously launching a sister delivery brand called Smokin' Bowls that will focus on – you guessed it – complete meals in a bowl, featuring their BBQ meats as the protein source.

Ken Walker, former owner of Bubba's (left), Matty Waters (right)

Speaking of BBQ, an update from Matty Waters on his takeover of Bubba’s shows that the revamp is well underway. It's all set to soft open again by mid-April with an entirely fresh look, concept, and menu, plus a new name – drum roll please...

Parlay!

In gambling terminology, the word means placing the stake and winnings from a previous wager on a further bet to make even greater riches, or, when spelt parley, refers to a meet-up and talk, as made famous by everyone's favorite rum-soaked pirate, Captain Jack Sparrow.

The space is going to have an elevated sports bar vibe. Think pool tables, darts boards, wraparound high top seating, and a flashy new repurposed bar.

The menu will still focus on BBQ – but a stronger emphasis on freshly done daily BBQ – plus a Combi oven, a new cold room for salads, and a broader spread of sandwiches, burgers, and entrées.

The outdoor space will be ready to go for spring too, ideal for BBQ brunches and shmoozing in the sun.

They will also still hold a lot of Bubba's legacy events, like the annual Chili Cook-Off – one of Shanghai's longest running food festivals.

Union Trading Co's Yao Lu. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

This year, world-renowned bar and Shanghai favorite Union Trading Company will be hitting double digits, celebrating its 10-year anniversary with a special “decade’s worth of drinks” menu, comprised of two drinks from the menu of each of the last 10 years.

Union Trading Co Suzhou. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Simultaneously, the UTC team is also celebrating the opening of its second location, this time in Suzhou.

The bar – on the famed Shiqian Jie, right in the heart of Suzhou Old Town – is nearly double the size of the original in Shanghai.

Union Trading Co Suzhou. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Nestled between historical buildings, the new watering hole is led by manager Lio Yao and owner Yao Lu, who – together with the team – have curated a smattering of seasonally-focused drinks and snacks, along with a handful of “best of UTC” cocktails for the venue’s debut menu.

It’s just a quick 30-minute train (or 'air taxi') ride away, and well worth checking out!

Gēn. Image via Dianping

The old Le Daily spot is now Gēn, a contemporary Yunnan/Guizhou restaurant and wine/cocktail bar with trendy bites – like water shoots sautéed with Iberico ham, or Qiandaohu perch in Guizhou hot and sour soup.

Cocktails mix Eastern and Western ingredients – like galangal with mezcal or Sichuan peppercorn with red wine.

There are also sake tasting flights.

Duli. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Also in Jing’an, casual pita sandwich shop Just Pocket is now being converted into creative vegan resto Duli’s new storefront after being forced to close due to landlord issues at the end of December.

Just Pocket was owned by Lin Yan, the wife of Duli’s owner Thijs Bosma, so it makes sense that the couple decided to “join forces,” so to speak, for the location.

The new space is set to open the first half of April, with a newly designed fusion menu courtesy of consulting Chef Andrew Moo (Yaya's).

Image courtesy of Fu He Guang

Fu He Guang – also known as Fook Wo Kwong in Cantonese – has been revamped and reopened just west of People’s Square, offering high-end, Michelin-rated Cantonese fare in a lux setting.

Led by veteran Chef Peng Huayou (previously of Seventh Son Jing'an), the restaurant offers elevated Hong Kong dishes, like baked lobster in superior broth and abalone in oyster sauce.

8 by Aarkia. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

After having to temporarily close a few months back due to unforeseen issues (you know how it goes), Chef Gabo Rodriquez's 8 by Anarkia is set to reopen in May on the corner of Jianguo Xi Lu and Hengshan Lu.

With a new name, 八 by 8 (read as ba by eight), it promises to be bigger, badder, and better than ever.

Chef Gabo will be offering up two set menu options, along with a la carte selections drawing inspiration from his entire 17-year cooking career and the whirlwind of venues he has owned, all with a "fine dining on a budget" backbone.

Pera Hongmei Lu. Image courtesy of Pera

Popular and reasonably priced Turkish restaurant Pera – managed by the owners of the Kebabs on the Grille empire – has opened another location, this time on Hongmei Lu.

Expect a similar menu chalk full of kebabs and grilled meat, Turkish 'pizzas,' falafel and the like for the hungry Hongmei hordes.

While Pera at Found 158 serves both Turkish and Indian cuisine, here the latter is left to the Kebabs on the Grille just up the lane.

That said, this venue boasts a big screen and ample space for sports fans, and will be screening all the big games, making it every Indian cricket supporter's new second home.

Chef Andrea Fiori. Image courtesy of New Wave by Da Vittorio

The last few months have also seen a serious chef shuffle, like a game of musical chairs.

Chef Andrea Fiori (previously of three Michelin star Lasarte in Barcelona) joined the New Wave by Da Vittoria team.

Chef Francesco Bonvini. Image courtesy of New Wave by Da Vittorio

The previous head chef at New Wave by Da Vittorio, Francesco Bonvini, made the jump to Cellar to Table... as hinted at in our November Gossip – looks like the cat’s finally out of the bag.

Chef Bonvini will also be designing the menu for NAPA (previously named Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen), which is set to reopen in Bund 22 this summer, under the same ownership team of Philippe Huser and Karen Ma.

Chef Ramses Navarro. Image courtesy of Capella Shanghai

Capella Shanghai welcomed newly appointed Executive Chef Ramses Navarro, who will lead the charge at French fine dining establishment Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire.

Hailing from Mexico, Navarro attended culinary school in France and then worked there for a decade – at Michelin star Le Moulin de LAbbaye in Périgord, and alongside Pierre Gagnaire himself in his three Michelin star restaurant in Paris.

Image courtesy of JZ Club

Shanghai jazz institution JZ Club has ditched the ever-more nightclubby clubby environs of Found 158 for a huge new space at Hengshan 8.

Image courtesy of JZ Club

Evidently, no expense has been spared on the new venue. And that includes behind the bar, with celebrated cocktail creator Colin Tait (previously of Shake, Black Rock) putting together the drinks menu.

The Upper Room. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Segueing nicely into the drinks side of the city, The Upper Room is welcoming Nick Lappen (previously of Call me Al in Hong Kong) to the team this coming month, taking over from Mark Lloyd (previously of The Upper Room and J.Boroski), who has now become the Head Mixologist for the The Wynn Macau.

Shanghai Love. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Onto closures – pour one out for craft beer bar Shanghai Love, who sadly shut their Maoming Lu doors earlier this month after a two-year run.

The Venue. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The Venue, meanwhile, shut after less than six months – an all-in-one dining, drinking and dancing destination that was quite possibly trying to be too many things at once.

Another flash in the pan, UVVU – an endeavor backed by VOL (the management group behind Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet) to stretch the UV Brand into a day-to-night coffee and cocktail experience – closed up shop in Wukang Market, also lasting less than half a year.

Got a hot tip? Feel free to email all juicy rumors to sophiesteiner@thatsmags.com.

Read more Shanghai Food & Drink Gossip.

[Cover image via tricycle.org]