The Place
Shanghai’s got a real fixation on sandwiches these days. Over the years, we’ve witnessed a handful of semi-passable hoagie shops open in fits and starts, then – seemingly out of nowhere – a slew of nearly a dozen popped up in a matter of months, ones that 100% warrant a revisit.
READ MORE: A-Z of Shanghai's Top 20 Sandwiches – Part I
READ MORE: A-Z of Shanghai's Top 20 Sandwiches – Part II
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The newest addition to said sando lineup is Chicago-inspired Rozebiff on Shanxi Bei Lu, backed by Chicago-raised Jimmy Shi and partner Edison Liang (ex-Da Vittorio Sous Chef and Chef de Partie, respectively).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
It’s basically the real life equivalent of the Hulu series The Bear with a China twist and *spoiler alert* no dead brother.
If you’ve been living under a rock for the last two years, The Bear is the story of a famed chef that leaves the fine dining world to run his late brother’s sandwich shop.
Here, he cranks out Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, a sacrosanct entity in the eyes of every Chicagoan, and the eponymous sandwich of Shanghai’s newest establishment.
Edison Liang, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Working with Tender Plus as their beef supplier, Shi and Liang spent nearly a year finding the exact right cut of meat – called roastbiff – which, with a bit of creative spelling, became the name above the door.
Pre Shanghai, Shi had worked his way around Chi-town at iconic restaurants – like Japanese noodle joint Takashi, Italian institution Spiaggia, and modern Mexican resto Topolobampo – picking up bits and pieces that have found their way onto Rozebiff’s menu.
The result is a genuine taste of Chicago’s comfort eats scene.
Jimmy Shi, Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Food
Before we get into Rozebiff, a bit of a history lesson on its signature sandwich, the Chicago Style Italian Beef.
It debuted at Al’s Beef in Chicago’s Little Italy in 1938 (a time when the city’s Italian immigrant population was flourishing) as a welcome addition to the working man’s lunch hour.
Riding on its coattails, dozens of competitors opened shop, but none made a name as big as the original, an institution – nay, a rite of passage – for all Chicagoans.
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Despite the fact that you can’t walk a block these days in the Windy City without passing an Italian restaurant or beef shop, it’s still believed that if you haven’t eaten a 2am Al’s Beef sandwich while simultaneously chugging a Goose Island – Chicago’s original craft beer – or a shot of malört (for those in the know) you can’t really say you’ve been to Chicago.
Facts.
Back to the beef, and Shi, who got real acquainted while he attended Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Chicago, and spent his evenings hanging with the owner of Mr. Beef himself at the original location, just 400 meters away from his doorstep.
A few drinking sessions in, a few secret recipes slipped out, and the rest is history.
Well, kind of.
Shi ultimately returned to China and spent years working in fine dining, all of which eventually lead him to… make blue collar fare, but gourmet.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Case in point, the aforementioned, iconic Chicago Style Italian Beef (RMB56) – Rozebiff’s signature sarnie.
Beef bones are simmered for 12 hours to make the broth that will eventually become the base of the jus.
Wagyu beef is concurrently being marinated in a proprietary blend of Italian spices overnight, and is seared then cooked to order in said broth to a tender medium rare.
A six-inch bun is piled high with 120 grams worth of the jus-soaked beef (more on that jus later – keep it in your pants), smothered in a don’t-even-think-about-touching-your-eyes-afterward giardiniera – an Italian relish of vinegar-pickled veggies belovedly adopted by Chicagoans for its pop of acidity that tempers out all that fat-ribbed meatiness.
Shi pickles all his veg overnight before letting it soak for a minimum of five days in pure olive oil for the ultimate sour giardiniera crunch.
What comes next is most important, the critical factor for determining the level of authenticity for any Italian beef – the dunk. Italian beef in Chicago will either be dribbled, dunked or baptized (aka fully submerged) in jus, immediately rendering the paper wrapper transparent.
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To avoid offense to those lacking Chicago culinary prowess, Shi is currently serving the jus on the side, rather than handing people a sopping sammy. But for those in the know, ask for the dunk, and you shall receive that bona fide Chicago experience.
The upper edge retains a crumbly crust, while the bottom half soaks up the steaming jus like a sponge, unleashing a bouquet of aromatic herbs with every sodden swallow – a bite Chicago natives would be proud of.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
An equally iconic sub, albeit hailing from the USA’s East Coast, the Philly Cheesesteak (RMB58) is arguably just as standout, unapologetically oozing with a generous heap of Da Vittorio truffle menu cheese sauce.
(Remember, Rozebiff is owned by two ex-DV chefs.)
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Melting together the ideal mix of provolone and fontina – balancing the elasticity from the former and umami funk from the latter – the stretchy goo is spread atop the majority of sandwiches on offer.
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In this case, it’s a molten sheathing over Australian beef chuck roll griddle-fried with chopped onions and green peppers.
Yes, Chef!
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Crispy pork carnitas are the star of the Cubano (RMB58), first braised then spiced and flat-top fried.
The pork shoulder ultimately lays to rest between folded pleats of French cooked ham, housemade pickled cucumber, a requisite slathering of real Heinz yellow mustard and – of course – another mound of provolone cheese sauce.
And if you don’t dine on swine, the Not So Cuban (RMB58) is the same sandwich but with the pork swapped for sliced roast beef and braised beef neck.
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The dubiously named Chicken Milanesa (RMB46) is more Italian than Latin American, save for a thick swipe of charred garlic and jalapeños along the bottom bun.
Coated in homemade breadcrumbs, the pounded chicken breast is flash-fried, and finished with cabbage slaw, pickled red onions, Italian pomodoro sauce, and (once again) an extra glob of provolone cheese.
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More of a “chicken parmesan takes a joy ride to Mexico,” the Italy-on-the-top-Mexico-on-the-bottom setup somehow comes together delectably in the middle.
Note: All sandwiches are six inches, but for an extra RMB20, you can have an eight-inch sub, plus all the bonus toppings.
Plus! Every weekday from 11am-2pm, lunch sets of a daily rotating sandwich, fries and a drink go for a steal at just RMB58 with an opening coupon. Can’t afford not to!
Duck-fat Fried Chicken (RMB38/5 pieces). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Clocking in at 95% beef, 5% potatoes, the Beef Empanadas (RMB28/2 pieces) can truly only be described as an utter beef bomb, juicy licks of jus trickling down the side of your chin with each bite.
The outer shell is simultaneously flaky and light, so much so that we were convinced it was baked rather than fried.
A generous shaving of parmesan and a dip in smoky salsa roja has us second guessing if this really is just a sandwich shop.
Aside from the aforementioned items, there’s the Pho-wich (RMB58), some chips and salsa, and – well – that’s it.
It’s a tight menu done right, with a slew of seasonal specials (like summertime classic milkshakes, miso chocolate chip cookies, and a Portillo’s style chopped salad) to look forward to.
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As for drinks, there’s homemade rice milk Horchata (RMB16) spiked with a dash of cinnamon.
And, coming soon, aguas frescas del día – or freshwater juices of the day – a popular non-alcoholic drink most often consumed in Mexico.
Think cucumber water with lime or fresh hibiscus.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
So why the Mexican influence?
Well, buckle up Shanghai. This is just the first of Shi’s concepts. His next outpost is already in the works – Mexico City street tacos, an homage to the abundant Mexican population that so deliciously influences Chicago’s South Side cuisine.
Pressed-to-order masa, flat-top fried arrachera, ancho and pasilla chili-laced salsa, ceviche cured with Mexico-imported limes… it’s coming.
And we are here for it.
The Vibe
Rozebiff is a microcosm of the American Midwest, a nostalgic ode to the suburban neighborhood corner shop, right here in Shanghai.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Red and blue tiling representing Chicago’s city flag are accented by retro diner yellow hues.
Seating is mostly shiny vinyl stools in stop-sign-red, tucking up to an equally bright deli counter lined with Heinz ketchup (as if there’s any need for another condiment).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
While ostensibly a 'fast food' sandwich shop, patrons can spot differences within seconds of entering.
The kitchen is meticulously copacetic; toppings are arranged via tweezers to order; equipment is top-of-the-line kit; service is methodical and streamlined; and a Michelin-rated cheese sauce makes a showing just so many times.
All to the backdrop of old school hip hop.
It’s 'fast food' like Michael Jordan dabbled in basketball.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
So, while Shanghai doubles down on its most recent obsession with sandwiches, our journey to seek out the best ends here.
Price: RMB46-58 per sandwich that involves Wagyu beef and a Michelin-rated cheese sauce. Take my money.
Who’s Going: Every single person who has ever set foot in Chicago in their entire life, Da Bears fanatics, all the passersby on Shanxi Bei Lu
Good For: A taste of ‘Murica, ridiculously cheap lunch sets (compared to the value received), and sandwiches (duh!)
Rozebiff, 549-5 Shanxi Bei Lu, by Xinzha Lu, 陕西北路549-5号, 近新闸路.
READ MORE
A-Z of Shanghai's Top 20 Sandwiches – Part I
A-Z of Shanghai's Top 20 Sandwiches – Part II
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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