Near the Che Gong Miao subway station, in a recently renovated building, sits Rucker, identifiable by the plaster cowboy statue on its front patio. It also sits somewhere between an attempt at an American steakhouse and something more palatable to local diners.
When we enter on a Friday night, the custom-built wood furniture is lit by neon-red lights and seating is hard to come by. Rucker has gone full out on a kooky, Wild West theme: a kerosene lantern hangs from a pillar wrapped in rope, framed movie posters line the stairway and barrels are suspended from the ceiling.
This is complemented by the attentive jean-clad, cowboy-hat-capped staff. A quick wave gets someone to our table and our orders are taken.
But Rucker doesn’t bring dishes in tandem, leaving one in our group almost done with a pizza margherita (RMB58) before the classic hamburger (RMB63) arrives 20 minutes later.
The burger, with onion, lettuce, tomato and mystery sauce, is something you would make at home. If you weren’t a good cook.
The grilled Australian marbled steak (RMB148) arrives medium rare, as requested, and looks great. But it comes only close enough to something from a State-side steakhouse to make you miss the real thing.
Avoid the french fries with cheese (RMB38); it’s actually a basket of soggy potato wedges with fish-tasting cheesy fries on top. The grilled leg of veal’s (RMB128) lightly peppered meat is soft, though a bit plain, with the provided ‘pepper sauce’ equally bland.
But it’s not all bad. The frozen fruit beers (RMB45) are a creative, icy mix; the strawberry-flavored version is made with jam. It’s a bit like sucking on a delicious snow cone that has been soaked in beer.
And Rucker does succeed in giving off a whimsical, let-your-hair-down ambiance, rare in restaurants that sell anything more than RMB20 noodles to patrons on wooden benches.
There is live music every night except Monday, played from a stage backed by an imitation animal hide. When we visit, the Russian singer’s white face is squarely in the spotlight, and she proves her talent with a rendition of ‘Someone Like You,’ but the three-piece band plays the same mix of top 40 hits that’s also on the sound system.
As a business, Rucker has many things going for it, including attentive staff, novelty and a more festive atmosphere than most Shenzhen restaurants. It has already proven popular with patrons and there are plans to expand in the city.
Unfortunately, those looking for an American-style steakhouse experience will find Rucker about as authentic as a fortune cookie.
Price: RMB200
Who's going: curious locals, homesick Americans
Good for: attentive service, icy beer juice drinks
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