Shanghai Restaurant Review: Chicken and Egg

By Betty Richardson, March 1, 2016

The Place

Hey what came first, the chicken or the egg? Well, actually Citron. The odd, art deco-themed café that formerly occupied this fine dime brizzle spot on Fumin and Changle Lu and tried to do Sproutworks-style salads.

That place didn't work out, so parent company the Shanghai Brewery Group brought in executive chef Justin Birmingham (formerly of UK restaurant Winteringham Fields), went back to the drawing board and came back with Chicken and Egg, purveyors of "clucking good roast chicken." Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

The Food

In an eggshell, Chicken and Egg is like an upmarket version of beloved grilled chicken chain Nando's. Roast chicken dinners are the modus operandi, but the menu also carries other Caucasian favorites like avocado toast, chicken sandwiches, salad, red velvet cake et al.

Anyhow, the roast chicken is actually pretty good. Chicken and Egg is mixing it up a little with how they serve it. Whereas Wishbone and Nando's give you quarter, half or whole portions, these guys divide it into leg, breast and wing – perfect for people who hate/love white or dark meat. Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

With each portion of three meaty chunks, you can choose an accompanying sauce or gravy and also two sides for a total of RMB69 (or six wings for RMB45). Garlic green beans, still with crunch and a decent dose of flavor. Warm charred corn could have done with more butter, so opt for the righteous mashed potato with butter, cream and spring onions instead.

Much like Nando's they also carry a range of sauces on each table, including ranch, piri piri, Thai chili and so on.

We could definitely see ourselves eating the roast chicken for dinner again, but for breakfast/brunch options, delve into the eggs section. Avocado toast gives you a generous topping of seasoned smashed avo as well as sliced, but for RMB50 there really ought to be two eggs, no? Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

Eggs en cocotte with bacon (RMB50) takes a while to make, but is an interesting deviation from traditional eggs 'n' bakey. We found the accompanying balsamic onions a little sweet however, and the dish is crying out for a god damn piece of toast or two. Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

Dessert is certainly a strong point here, courtesy of pastry chef Ashlee Bump, of Sweet Ever After. On our visit there were six options by the slice, including matcha cheesecake, baked cheesecake, cookie 'n' cream cheesecake and a dense-looking red velvet cake. Portions are also clucking enormous. Our mixed berry cheesecake (RMB38) was the size of a shoe and easily as heavy. Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

Kudos for the thin crust and macadamia nut topping on the chocolate nut pie, also RMB38. Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

Food Verdict: 2/3

The Vibe

Blessed with high ceilings, spacious interiors, natural light, and an excellent location, Chicken and Egg has amenities that lesser-funded F&B ventures can only dream of. Staff are bilingual and knowledgeable, but annoyingly the bathrooms are only accessible via an underground carpark.

On the plus side, the WiFi is speedy and they don't mind customers wishing to loiter during the afternoons. There's also a very pleasant and sunny terrace outside for al fresco occassions. Chicken and Egg Restaurant Shanghai

Vibe Verdict: 1/1

Value for Money

It's a mixed bag here at Chicken and Egg. Certain things offer great value for money, (i.e. cake, chicken dinner) whereas others are verging on pricey for their size. Order prudently however, and you'll be rewarded with substantial and nutritious food for around RMB100 per person or less.

Value for Money: 0.5/1