The Place
Named after the French cartoon elephant that just so happens to be the venue’s mascot, Babar is Donghu Lu’s newest French bistro-meets-bar-meets-comptoir, backed by owner Simon Briens (Blaz, RAC) and General Manager / menu creator Guillaume Tu (previously of Spread Bar à Tartine, Villa Le Bec, Mr & Mrs Bund).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The name comes from the elephant-shaped layout of the space that used to be Wagas, with the kitchen representing its legs and the long window-lined banquette embodying its trunk.
(The elephant seems to be Donghu Lu's spirit animal – the El Willy Group used to have a place called elEfante in the heritage villa that now houses Blaz and Cellar to Table.)
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In Chinese, Babar mimics the sound of double eight (ba-ba) – an easily pronounceable and lucky number – with the second syllable emphasizing 'bar' in both languages, as the wine program is the venue’s key focus.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Babar is at once unpretentious and trendy, offering creative French fare snacks with an equally impressive wine menu, all in an approachable, pocket-friendly setting.
The Food
Honing in on petite portion plates for sharing while imbibing, the menu has a French backbone... with a twist.
Meaning there are no rules.
Be it Southeast Asian, Japanese, Chinese, or even Mexican flair – as long as it's tasty, it can find its way onto the roster.
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The only thing you won’t find is a knife – as all dishes can be enjoyed with just a fork, a spoon, chopsticks, or your fingers – removing the 'stuffiness' of a formal French restaurant.
Spoiler alert – there's no hulking cote de boeuf or heavy cassoulet, but rather a French take on 'tapas,' morphing some traditional French plates into nibbles.
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Case in point, there’s requisite Snails (RMB90) – a spin on conventional escargot, with butter-seared snails enveloped in an unctuous garlic parsley bechamel, rolled in bread crumbs, and fried into cromesquis (similar to croquettes, for the linguist-leaning foodies).
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Instead of a parsley and garlic butter crumble that customarily adorns the top of escargot, those same ingredients are emulsified into a dipping sauce on which the cromesquis sit.
A whimsical interpretation of this legendary dish, Babar makes it even more 'snackable,' with these finger-friendly foretastes.
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Twice-smoked homemade mayonnaise – first just the yolks, then a second time after all ingredients have been combined – is piped atop soft-boiled eggs as the Eggs Mayo (RMB55).
The half egg’s custardy yolk is juxtaposed against the velvety in-house made mayonnaise, amped by umami smoke – one that lends a subtle sweetness reminiscent of seafood.
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Speaking of seafood, to let the seared Baby Squid (RMB85) shine, a typical sauce vierge (or 'virgin sauce,' as it translates from French) – of olive oil, lemon and aromatic herbs (like coriander, parsley, chives and chervil) – is dribbled over the top, finished with tart seasonal tomatoes for a fresh and simple palate cleansing plate.
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With the leaves acting as spoons, the Endive Salad (RMB85) involves scooping the dressing – a tangy dollop of French blue cheese, milk cream, and yogurt, adorned with diced green apple, apple jellies, and walnut crumble.
A utensil-free option for sneaking in your daily dose of five.
Deep Fried Pork Intestines (RMB65). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A play on the French dish of herring and potatoes, paper-thin spud slices are stacked and coated in clarified butter as a millefeuille of sorts, before roasting for 90 minutes.
Cut into bite-size bricks and flash-fried to order, the crisped and layered Herring & Potato (RMB75) is finished with tartare sauce; blow-torch charred, house-brined and smoked herring; and dill fronds for a morsel that melts into a salt, shallot, and caper-flecked memory of merriment.
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With Moroccan origins, Zaalouk Dip (RMB65) – a smoky roasted eggplant and tomato chutney, spiced with cumin, paprika and coriander seed – is regularly found in France, a result of the reverse cuisine influence of the French-Moroccan immigration. Buttered toast is served alongside.
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A lacey skirt of brittle batter encases an unctuous mixture of black pudding, water chestnuts and apples as the Black Boudin Gyoza (RMB90), an amalgamation of French flavors and Asian cooking techniques that links the two cuisines in the most delectable of ways.
Artichoke (RMB85). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Like a high-end version of street chuar, the Lamb Skewers (RMB65) are seasoned with mixed Xinjiang spices, lamb fat crumble, sesame seeds and Thai coriander, with a smarmy peanut dipping sauce on the side.
Caramelized Apple Vanilla Swirl (RMB28/scoop, RMB50/2 scoops). Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s
There's also a slew of homemade ice creams, available in six seasonal flavors. The offerings currently include caramelized apple vanilla swirl, dark chocolate with toasted hazelnuts, and passion fruit with raspberry coulis and ginger nibs, to name a few – but that list is always changing.
Bonus, the ice cream can also be ordered from the takeout window daily from noon onwards (and ever upwards).
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As Babar is first and foremost a wine bar, the wine menu is even more expansive than the food, with a new take on "wine by the glass" that affords diners the largest selection in the entire city.
So how does it work?
Every day from 6-8pm, everything in the wine cellar is available by the glass for a flat RMB60, without having to commit to the entire bottle.
Then, to avoid wastage of good wine, every bottle that’s been opened by guests during that two-hour window becomes the wine-by-the-glass for that day for all customers ordering after 8pm.
Genius.
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The ever-expanding wine list spans French Old World to New World labels, natural wines, low intervention wines, and boutique vintages – a lineup that is always changing based on what Briens finds interesting from the most recent imports.
In addition to the nectar of the gods, there are also Tap Beers (RMB45-50) and creative Tap Cocktails (RMB45-55).
The Vibe
With space for 35 inside, Babar bridges seated meals and standing drinks with high chairs, a common tavern setup in France, known as a buvette.
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Part bar, part restaurant, part café, a buvette is open from sunlight to candlelight, a place to savor good drink, good food, and good vibes, regardless of the time of day.
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As the weather warms, the bay windows that flank the restaurant’s street-facing wall will open, allowing for patrons to soak in the sun as they sip.
The venue is currently only open for dinner, but the goal is to extend into daytime dining around mid-April, potentially pulling lunch inspiration from chef Guillaume's original Spread Bar à Tartine concept.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Despite being open just a few short months, service is both professional and polite, with wine suggestions provided to guide customers based on their food order.
Said food arrives quickly, because “mise en place is everything,” says Tu.
And – no surprise here – drinks flow just as easily.
Price: RMB300-500
Who’s Going: Wine world folk, French and natural wine lovers, trendy expats and locals alike
Good For: Date nights, wine-fueled friendly catch-ups, curious foodie outings
Babar, 7 Donghu Lu, by Xinle Lu, 东湖路7号, 近新乐路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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