The Place
The sister venue to Suzu, Kaisha auspiciously opened on August 8 in Shankang Li. The space is divided into two parts – the front, known as West, is a casual cocktail restaurant, while the back, named Higashi (meaning 'East' in Japanese), is a classic Japanese cocktail bar.
Not the kind stacked with suit-clad salarymen pounding sake and skewers after a long day at the business factory, mind you, but a high-end, perfectly curated experience bar, where you are acquiescingly forking over all the yen in your wallet for another drink.
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Barmen Tomo Shinoda and Naoki Toyodome are behind West’s cocktail menu, made up of classics with a twist (divided into tasting cues like sweet, strong, sour or hot) plus a world tour menu where drinkers can choose which city they’d like to ‘visit’ and receive a beverage representing said location.
Meanwhile, Shunojo Iyuda and Kohei Yoshimura have designed an international cuisine menu, drawing on Shunojo’s experiences working in both San Francisco and Sicily.
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Higashi houses more of an exclusive speakeasy vibe, nuanced by Japanese cultural elements. Here, the focus is tailored experience cocktails – each paired with a small bite that compliments the individual drink. A tight menu of traditional Japanese bar snacks is available.
The drinks, the food and the atmosphere are completely different between the two, making a visit to each a must.
The Food & Drinks
The menu is eclectic, plates – and sometimes even bites – jumping between Asia and Europe. Yet, it works, and fully compliments the cocktail drinking vibe.
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An Osaka street snack, Takoyaki (RMB58/6 pieces, RMB78/10 pieces) are ideal bar fodder – deep fried gooey octopus dumplings are housed in a pillowy pancake batter, drizzled with tangy takoyaki sauce and sweet kewpie mayo. Fluttering bonito flakes wave back at you, urging another bite.
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Yet another to add to the Jing’an sandwich favorites (we’re looking at you Le Daily Reuben) the Crazy Chicken Sandwich (RMB78/small, RMB108/large) has quite possibly garnered an equally fanatic following.
Battered and fried tonkatsu chicken breast is layered with shredded cabbage, melty Emmental and cheddar, salted lemon dressing and pesto, double stacked on white bread with piquant homemade pickles.
While the flavor combinations may clash with the philosophies of many an esteemed sandwicherian, we are all for throwing the rulebook in the trash in exchange for another serving of this sando.
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The lean Pork Filet Steak (RMB158) is fanned out alongside a sticky, grape hongshao rou-inspired sauce, flanked by thick cut potato wedges and rosemary.
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Cheese Macaroni Gratin (RMB88) is the epitome of creamy, with a truffle bechamel sauce coated in chunks of gooey mozzarella and parmesan, dusted with panko butter crumbs.
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Airy and soft, the signature Basque Cheese Cake (RMB68) has notably caramel undertones and pairs well with any of the homemade ice creams, like Ginger & Honey (RMB48) or Basil (RMB48).
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As for the drinks, leave Japan in the rearview mirror and jet off to Italy with the Pizza Daiquiri (RMB110), a savory sipper made with grilled onion and tomato-infused rum, frothed with egg white and topped with oregano and parmesan cheese.
Or say hola to a Jalisco Dancer (RMB105), a sour tequila-based bevvie, softened by sherry and fresh citrus, adorned with a tortilla crisp.
The Mexican Pop (RMB96) tastes exactly like a boozy butter popcorn Jelly Belly – an imaginative combination of tequila, popcorn syrup and cream.
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Completely unique to Kaisha is the 8 Dish & 8 Cocktail Pairing Menu (RMB680/food, RMB300/cocktails), a series of dishes matched with libations that change every few weeks based on seasonality.
Chef Shunojo applies all Chinese ingredients to recreate characteristic Sicilian dishes, focusing entirely on seasonality of ingredients. Then, Tomo and Naoki create complimentary sips, restarting the process every few weeks to utilize only the freshest ingredients.
Finish a cocktail-heavy dinner and move over to Higashi for a nightcap; the Zen-like precision used to craft each individual drink is a nod to everything we love about meticulous Japanese culture.
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Bringing together autumn ingredients like roasted pumpkin paste, the Present From Farm (RMB168) sees brandy, coffee liqueur and Advocaat – an eggnog-esque Dutch alcoholic beverage made from eggs, sugar and brandy – paired with a Kessho Single Origin Chocolate square.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On the opposite end of the flavor spectrum, the 月之轮 (RMB168) is a lip-puckeringly sour matchup of ume shochu, umeshu, Cointreau and lemon, balanced by a late night bowl of Oden (RMB88).
The Vibe
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The throwback beats are pumping in West, urging diners to Celebrate Good Times… Come On! Before breaking out into Dancing Queen and YMCA.
The cooler, older brother Higashi is more reserved and secluded, with drinks ordered like whispers between secret lovers.
While globe-shaped lights are kept purposefully bright during dinner in West, Higashi is shadowy, subdued in earth tones of grays and browns with red highlights.
The bar is at the heart of both – a thread that connects the two – as it should in a cocktail-centric venue.
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Within the Kaisha universe, West is ideal for a work or friend catchup; it’s where we would bring a date for a relaxed hangout.
Higashi, however, is where we would lead that date after jiving through a whole meal, when more privacy is in order.
Price: RMB275-425
Who’s Going: The Jing’an drinking contingency, Japanese expats missing home, curious set menu fans
Good For: Cocktail-heavy date nights, friendly catchups, Japanese everything cravings
See a listing for Kaisha. Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s]
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