The place
For those of you unfamiliar with Capo, it’s one of Shanghai’s more upmarket Italian restaurants specializing primarily in very good pizzas and pricey cuts of steak. Doesn’t take a genius to work out that premium ingredients in an exclusive environment equals a hefty bill at the end…
However, those wanting a bite of owner/chef Enzo Carbone’s dishes on the reg may now turn to Mammamia! Trattoria, launched as a cheaper spinoff selling the same brand of Capo-style cooking at everyday prices, this cool little branch on Huaihai Lu following the first in Lujiazui's Superbrand Mall.
The food
Contrary to its rather cliché name, Mammamia! Trattoria is a refreshing change of pace to the multitude of fairly ubiquitous Italian spots in Shanghai. We don’t shock easy, but low, low prices on the menu stunned us. Tagliatelle con prosciutto cotto e panna (below) was a simple pasta with nothing but cream and meat, but believe us comfort food never tasted so good at RMB68.
Same went for the scialatielli vongole (below) at RMB78, laden with clams and fresh zucchini. Both made with freshly made, chewy textured pasta cooked to al dente perfection.
The diavola pizza (below) with mozzarella, salami, basil and Parmesan was equally good as those found at Capo, and for a fraction of the cost at RMB88 (the cheapest is the marinara at RMB58).
Similarly simple and generous was salsiccia grigliata e friartelli (below, RMB98) AKA grilled pork and fennel sausage with broccolini and roast potatoes. Definitely a yes from us, although we wouldn't have minded a gravy or sauce to bring out the flavors a little more.
Food Verdict: 2/3
The vibe
On our visit we found service to be relaxed and courteous, and it’s clear the team is well trained from the Capo camp. They’ve also got a little salumeria to the side with a nice selection of wines by the bottle, which you can take home or drink right at your table.
Vibe Verdict: 1/1
Value for money
Given the extremely affordable prices coupled with the ‘just trendy enough’ atmosphere, it’s hard to deny Mammamia! Trattoria is one of the best value Italians we’ve eaten at recently. Our only worry is that its affordability and chilled out vibes might start to eclipse Capo.
Currently, this spot definitely comes recommended for casual Italian dinners that don't break the budget. For lunchtime diners, try the RMB68 set that gets you one pizza, salad and a drink for RMB68.
Value for Money: 1/1
TOTAL VERDICT: 4/5
Price: 90-250RMB per person
Who’s going: locals, Italians, friends of management
Good for: casual dinner, big groups, good value.
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