The Place
Circo by Alimentari is just one of 11 POPOLO Group locations in Shanghai – with locations in Hangzhou and Chengdu also, and another on the way.
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Meaning “circus” in Italian, Circo is a vibrantly decorated space – reds and greens, bright purples, teals and blues – with Circus-esque whimsical decorations.
Think plush crimson curtains at the entrance to the wine room, Edison-bulb encircled signage and framed black-and-white circus photos.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
It’s all very cheerful, with a sun-soaked terrace set back from the street, surrounded by the main courtyard of The Weave – an F&B hub with other popular venues like Anokhi, Bhacus, Drunk Baker, and more.
The Food
The smaller, lighter menu focuses on all-day dining, beginning with daily brunch items, available from 9am-4pm, with selections like Truffle Egg (RMB60), Quiche (RMB65), Smoked Salmon Toast (RMB65) and Red Shrimps Benedict (RMB68).
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There’s also a hefty roster of cicchetti – the Venetian word for canapes or tapas (ideal drinking fodder) available daily from 11am-11pm.
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Begin with the Seafood Croquettas (RMB70), a quartet of deep-fried puffs, stuffed with squid, prawns, clams, and unctuous lobster bechamel, finished with a dot of squid ink aioli.
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For the raw offerings, the Beef Tartare (RMB65) sees torched beef tenderloin tossed in a wasabi aioli with black garlic and chives, adorned with runny yolk-filled quail eggs and focaccia crisps.
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The Marinated Salmon (RMB75) is a pleated plate of in-house cured salmon strips, dribbled in basil oil, and finished with crispy potato puffs and sour cream.
Other snackable options includes Stuffed Squid (RMB68), White Asparagus (RMB68) and a chorizo and caramelized onion Frittata (RMB55), to name just a few.
And, while the focus of Circo is more on bistro-style dining, as part of the POPOLO Group, of course there are DIY meat and cheese platters – with six meats, cheeses, and pickles varieties to choose from.
Any selection of two goes for RMB65, three for RMB95, four for RMB125, and extras after that for an additional RMB30.
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Beyond the appetizers and finger foods, there’s also a smattering of fresh pastas, mains, salads, and desserts.
Keeping in line with the strong seafood emphasis, we opted for the Crispy Seabass (RMB105), a buttery fillet of fish seared to perfection, atop a leek and spring onion purée, finished with steamed broccoli and a refreshing dollop of sour cream.
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Our favorite bite of the day is actually awarded to a seemingly humble bowl of greens, the Endive & Speck Salad (RMB60) that is anything but monotonous. Crunchy endive leaves are juxtaposed against tart apple and salty speck – or smoked pork leg.
Generous chunks of gorgonzola cheese temper the endive’s natural bitterness while an addictingly zippy citrus vinaigrette brings all of the bold flavors together into one harmoniously balanced – and health-conscious – bite.
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Less of the traditional ricotta and mascarpone-stuffed fried pastry dough cracker and more of a ricotta-based pastry, the Cannoli Cake (RMB45) encompasses all the flavors of a cannoli, yet presents it over a buttery tart shell.
Vanilla, chocolate chips and a dusting of orange zest collectively result in a decadent mouthful, topped with a sugar crumble.
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But in this heat, it’s really just ice cream we crave, and Circo delivers with six Gelato (RMB25/1 scoop, RMB40/2 scoops) flavors – pistachio, mint chocolate, vanilla, Nutella, mango, and raspberry, each one better than the last.
The Vibe
Like other Alimentari locations, this casual eatery is about straightforward, classic dishes, done well, with high quality ingredients, served up in a lively, friendly setting.
Circo is no exception, bustling at all hours of the day, the terrace seats always a coveted hangout.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Because this POPOLO Group venue doesn’t center around a takeaway deli counter and shelves stocked with imported products, the atmosphere is more that of a café and bistro; patrons sipping afternoon coffee while typing away on a laptop alongside a gaggle of chatty friends indulging in a cheeky midday glass of rosé.
The approachable vibe makes for an ideal repeat visit.
Price: RMB150-250
Who’s Going: The everyday expat, Xuhui dwellers, anyone craving casual italian
Good For: All-day-dining, afternoon drinks, casual catch-ups
Circo by Alimentari, 1/F, 277 Wuxing Lu, by Jianguo Lu, 徐家汇吴兴路277号 1楼, 近建国路.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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