The Place
Named after the 2004 blockbuster hit Sideways – a dark comedy about two friends' wine tasting road trip that grievously staggers sideways towards mid-life crisis – Sideways by Cellar to Table shares the same deep-rooted affinity for wine as the film's main character, sans the tragedy.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Sister restaurant to – you guessed it – Cellar to Table (and Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen), while the former is a Mediterranean bistro (read our review of it here), Sideways by Cellar to Table is all about straightforward comfort food with a strong emphasis on wine exploration.
Think burgers, pastas, salads, and a smattering of Spanish tapas for good measure – with each individual dish paired with a specific glass of wine.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
While coupling boutique vintage wines with stacked burgers dripping with grease, gooey cheese and smarmy sauce may seem at odds with one another, the pairing of the two embodies the film’s takeaway, as well as the ethos of the restaurant; it is not about the caliber of the winery, the exact vintage nor the cost of the bottle.
Instead, it should be about the moment in which it is experienced – the people you’re with, the delicious food you’re eating (regardless of extravagance level), and the joy you feel while drinking that wine.
And trust us, we feel all the joy while crushing a bacon and cheddar burger, washing it down with a crisp Provence rosé.
Concept proven successful.
The Food & Wine
After opening in November 2022 with a wholly Spanish tapas menu, this past spring the team decided to pivot towards easy-to-understand – and expertly executed – dishes designed by Chilean Chef Francisco Javier Araya and desserts by partner and Head Pastry Chef Fernanda, both from Cellar to Table and Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The purpose of the switch? So wine can continue to take center stage as a wider Shanghai audience prioritizes learning about a broader selection of wines.
And a broader selection of wines is exactly what Sideways boasts – over 300 varietals, mostly ranging in price from RMB300-600 per bottle, with no shortage of small batch vintages and niche wines.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
But the team, led by owner and wine importer Philippe Huser, takes it a step further, with thoughtful pairings, and QR-scannable bottles so guests can order the wines they taste straight to their door for next day enjoyment.
They even offer wine delivery by the glass – in one-time use cans – so diners can appreciate the pairings both in the restaurant and on their couch at home.
Genius. Step aside canned cocktails; canned wine is now in the limelight.
So let’s get into the meat of this article – literally – beginning with the focal point of the food menu: burgers.
A seared foie gras, onion ring and BBQ sauce-topped cheeseburger paired with a robust 2011 Chateau Cheval Blanc Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classe A, clocking in at RMB880 for a 75ml pour…
Alright, you’ve caught our attention; we’re listening.
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One of the restaurant’s signature burgers, named after Sideways’ protagonist, the Miles (RMB140) is an homage to the movie’s climactic scene where the main character – in all his wallowing angst – decides to drink his prized bottle of Chateau Cheval Blanc (the same wine that is served right here in Shanghai with his namesake burger) at an everyday diner, paired with – you guessed it – a burger.
But not just any burger can be eaten with such a revered bottled. So, of course, Sideways delivers with a hefty 70-gram slab of foie gras, a crispy onion ring, tangy BBQ sauce, and cheddar, atop an Australian Angus beef patty, all nestled between two homemade toasted brioche buns.
It’s cheeky.
It’s indulgent.
It’s excessive.
And it’s exactly what a wine of that caliber deserves to be paired with.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A heart-on-your-sleeve love song to smoky bacon, the Jack’s BLT (RMB110) features an Australian Angus beef patty (charred on the flat top and finished in the Combi oven), cheddar, tomato, lettuce, secret sauce, and corrugated crisp ribbons of American-style bacon that exude a smoky perfume reminiscent of a backyard BBQ on a sunny summer day.
Which is exactly why this textbook burger is served alongside a cold glass of Chateau La Mascaronne Cotes de Provence Rose (RMB65), a crisp, light-bodied rosé that cuts through the meat’s unctuousness.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Named after the breakfast joint frequented by the main character of the movie, the Solvang Breakfast (RMB105) is all about that sunny side up jammy egg yolk sheathing a juicy beef burger, amped up by a shitake mushroom cap and melted cheddar.
This brunch-worthy burg is paired with a fruit-forward glass of Domaine de Sulauze’s Cochon Vin de France (RMB65) – so refreshing you could drink it any time of the day. Breakfast wine anyone?
Aside from the trio of burgers we sampled, there are two others currently on the menu, with more seasonal sliders on the way.
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Definitely not a burger, but just as deserving of a wine pairing, the Spicy Chick (RMB80) is a glorified fried chicken sandwich deserving of only the highest of praises.
Featuring breaded chicken thigh (seasoned with cayenne, thyme and oregano), tomato, lettuce and a fiery secret sauce on plush, homemade ciabatta, the spicy heat is tempered by the suggested wine pairing, a dry Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spätlese (RMB115).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Classic Cali-Baja tacos, the Maya’s Tacos (RMB80) see two flour tortillas stuffed with fried green cod, salsa, coleslaw and pickled shallots.
Easy going and bright in flavor, it represents the vivacious personality of the movie character of the same name, and paired with an equally bubbly Champagne Dehours Brut Reserve (RMB125).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
For tapas snacking, the usual suspects make a showing: Gambas al Ajillo (RMB85) – springy shrimp with the perfect snap, coated in garlic chips and red chili, arriving tableside still sizzling…
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… Gilda (RMB38) – the original pintxo from San Sebastián that helped put the Basque culinary powerhouse on the map with its briny combination of anchovies threaded through green olives and pickled guindilla chili peppers…
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… Iberico Croqueta (RMB58) with Iberico ham, flecks of chorizo and luscious bechamel…
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… and perhaps the best rendition of Callos a la Madrileña (RMB88) to be found in Shanghai – a Spanish stew usually eaten at home, meticulously prepared by the matriarch of the household using a coveted secret recipe that dear ol' abuela vows to only share on her death bed.
Tender slices of braised beef tripe melt into a spiced tomato stew, adorned with onyx blood pudding – slightly smoky, sweet, with dense minerality.
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Moving onto dessert, made by steeping thick orange skin in milk overnight, the warm sugary notes of the custardy Flan (RMB45) are balanced by citrus, dribbled in a sticky caramel.
Basque Cheesecake (RMB55), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The treacly Arroz con Leche (RMB50) – or rice pudding – is spiced with cinnamon, cloves and star anise, all imbued in the milk that cooks the rice, resulting in a creamier body.
A dollop of dulce de leche is blended into the milk foam then brûléed for a crackly saccharine crust, lending a crème brûlée’s best component to this sweet finish.
And, if you can’t get enough of these standout desserts, Sideways will soon be launching an afternoon tea with even more dessert and pastry offerings.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
One of the best deals around, Sideways’ Lunch Set (RMB98) includes one starter – Tomato Salad, Kale Chopped Salad, or Fried Calamari – one main – Sideways Burger, The Spicy Chick, or Spaghetti Meatballs – and diners can add on dessert for an extra RMB20, choosing from Arroz con Leche or Tiramisu.
So essentially, you’re scoring this meal for less than the cost of most burgers on the menu.
Can’t afford not to.
The Vibe
Located in MixC, flanked by other popular Shanghai outlets – Lokal, Fascino, Luneurs, Xibo, and Dairy Queen, to name a few – the Cellar to Table space is bright and inviting with floor to ceiling windows and a central bar with hanging wine glasses that catch the daylight in a luminescent glow.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Ample outdoor space makes it an ideal venue for all-day dining, further exemplifying the restaurant’s key concept that enjoying a glass of wine isn’t reserved only for fine dining or special occasions.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Price: RMB100-400
Who’s Going: Visitors of MixC, Cellar to Table fans, winos in the know
Good For: Unpretentious wine pairings, increased burger consumption, comfort food done well
Sideways by Cellar to Table, e103, 1/F, 111 Shanxi Bei Lu, by Tiantong Lu, 山西北路111号L层e103室， 近天潼路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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