MESS by name, but not by nature. This popular restaurant out by the Modern Art Museum in Pudong involves throwing an ambitious amount of elements together.
And, with every new menu iteration, it works even better.
Chef Eliran Gavriel, in partnership with Chef Shahaf Shabtay, has taken the basics he was grounded in through his upbringing in Israel and studies abroad, and brought them to the Asian kitchen.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Combining the flavors of the Middle East with traditional European techniques, and adding elements of Southeast, South and East Asian cuisine, he intertwines all he has found on his travels and his culinary explorations.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The newest iteration of the menu combines all of the tinkering and playing with ingredients that Chef Eliran had time for during last year's lockdown, stretching the boundaries of what a particular dish – or component of a dish – can be.
This time, there's a heavier emphasis on higher level French techniques in particular, with more time invested into prep, resulting in an overall cleaner palate, bolder flavors and ingenious craftsmanship.
Onto the good stuff, the details...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A play on a French entrecote roll, the Tam Tam (RMB168) sees filo-like borek paper encasing sticky Indonesian rujak manis-marinated ribeye and a spear of asparagus.
The sliced rolls rest in a pond of beef and lamb stock-based French onion soup, the caramelized onions’ sugars bringing us back in for another spoonful.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A straightforward starter, the Tuna Broccoli (RMB138) proffers grilled sourdough spread with a zippy caramelized garlic and onion broccoli tartar, capped by a plump soy sauce and wasabi-glazed block of velvety tuna belly sashimi.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Fried black Tiger prawns are surrounded by a thin layer of cooked omelette, crushed peanuts chilis, Thai coriander, and a shmear of Philadelphia cream cheese, all encased in a spring roll wrapper as the Bago Shrimp (RMB158).
A creamy moat of shitake and truffle black pepper mushroom sauce anchors the rolls to the plate, adding earthy undertones to the bite.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Glazed in sake and miso, the Japanese Mackerel (RMB198) is pan-fried, then roasted in the oven with fried onion powder, paired with a brisket juice reduction aioli.
A lashing of lemon cuts through the oily fish flesh that breaks off in buttery hunks.
Caesar Roll (RMB138), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Calamari Mung Bean (RMB168) sees bouncy pieces of mirin-, miso- and honey-glazed squid rings roasted over charcoal with Chinese dan dan chili spice.
A treacly drizzle of caramelized mung bean jam juxtaposes fermented soy sauce and beef stock demi-glace to round out the plate.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Perched atop plush, grilled Japanese milk bread, succulent chunks of salmon yakitori and oil-poached codfish are shmeared in a sweet corn aioli and parmesan foam as the Broken Fish Bruschetta (RMB148).
(One that will have you skipping over the tomato alternative in no time.)
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Jumbo Vietnamese prawns are first poached in garlic butter and carrot juice extract as the Portuguese Shrimp (RMB148), before being served over a sauce of dried Chinese river shrimp blended with cream.
A sprinkling of eggplant powder rounds out the crustaceans’ natural sweetness.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pleated into Pika Shumai (RMB118), diners can savor a blend of 70% ginger shrimp and 30% beef, curiously paired with a splotch of peanut butter that adds a distinctly unctuous mouthfeel.
Spring onion-laced Israeli chicken soup is poured over the top, elevated by a nip of Sichuan salt and mala-numbing spice, the heat mellowed by a dollop of cream.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A red curry is strained then mixed with butter for a Thai-flavors-meets-French-techniques “evolution curry” of sorts, as Chef Eliran calls the Thai Halibut (RMB278).
A pudgy slab of sous vide halibut, marinated in olive oil and garlic, is slathered in said curry, alongside confit eggplants and leeks.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Slow-roasted overnight, the Wagyu Brisket (RMB198) sits in an Indonesian ajam pedis satay sauce, softened by coconut milk, and flanked by curling ribbons of zucchini salad.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
With a flavor profile inspired by Mediterranean shishbarak (similar to Turkish manti dumplings served in a spiced yogurt) the Spaghetti Cod (RMB278) sauce offers an unexpected but welcome alternative to mundane white pasta sauce.
Chicken bone stock, yogurt and Chinese shaokao grill spice are reduced into a rich broth before being blended with more yogurt, resulting in a slick coating that sticks to each individual homemade noodle strand, enhancing the cod’s oceanic sweetness when savored together in one mouthful.
Pappardelle M4 Striploin (RMB278), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Marinated in Chardonnay and an Israeli Baharat spice blend of nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, cumin and coriander, the Roulea de Boeuf (RMB148) – or thick slabs of beef tongue – are fringed by stir-fried Yunnan mushrooms and a luscious Japanese tahini dan dan chili oil sauce.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Now, let's talk about the place.
MESS is funky from the off, with large windows letting light in during the day and offering views out at night.
The layout of the restaurant is divided into five zones over two floors. Upon entering the restaurant, you find yourself in a groovy retro Middle Eastern vibed reception lounge.
Near the entrance is also a full child play area (only open on weekends), equipped with cartoon videos, Legos and Nintendo Switch, to keep the kids busy while the adults dine.
The rest of the first floor is dominated by an open kitchen facing the main dining room, with a main bar area housing counter seating and a DJ booth.
Image courtesy of MESS
Image courtesy of MESS
There is a double height connection to the second floor, and Middle Eastern elements abound, like the engraved copper lanterns and tea sets.
The second floor plays host to an open dessert bar with an outdoor terrace and a more Western chic feeling dark wood private dining room.
Image courtesy of MESS
The music is a mix of classics and hip song covers you can't help but Shazam and add to your own playlist.
All guests that come for a meal at MESS can also visit their downstairs gallery, with rotating artists displaying their works. The gallery is open Tuesday-Saturday from 11am-7pm.
MESS, 4777 Binjiang Dadao, by Pudian Lu, 浦东新区滨江大道4777号, 近浦电路.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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