Shanghai Restaurant Review: The Butchers Club

By Betty Richardson, February 23, 2018

The Place

Just when we thought the ludicrously over-topped burger trend was locked away down a dark corridor in the dungeon of food marketing ideas, it seems the beast has broken free. Ok, maybe we're being a little harsh here – some people actually like burgers so layered in superfluous toppings that they need disassembling before eating. But whichever your preference is, there's no doubt that the meteoric rise of Shake Shack has ushered in new appreciation for burger minimalism.

Newly opened in the ritzy IFC mall, Hong Kong export The Butchers Club is sticking to its guns. With neon lights reminiscent of a red light district sex shop, the restaurant glows invitingly amidst the aspirational squeaky clean mall world it inhabits.

The Food

The selling point at Butcher Club's is dry-aged beef from Black Angus Australian cows, available in burger or steak form. The latter category are often combined with toppings like foie gras, kimchi or pulled pork. But let's start with their simplest: The Burger (RMB90.)

Simple is probably the most generous adjective we can use to describe it. Our first problem is with the beef, which in our opinion is too lean to properly escort the mature profile of dry-aged beef into flavortown.

The second problem, and this might be controversial, is with the cheese.

We'll be frank: 'real' cheese on burgers, in particular thin slices like the above, is a terrible idea. Why? Because unprocessed cheese is fragile. In all but the most careful burger cook's hands it doesn't melt properly, instead becoming a revoltingly hardened, oily, and broken substance that tastes nothing of its former self.

Contrast this to cheese singles, a marvel of American (or, more accurately, Swiss) food science innovation. Believe it or not, American cheese singles are, by FDA law, comprised from a 51 percent blend of least two or more cheeses (most often cheddar) along with emulsifying ingredients that lower its melting point and improve heat stability, meaning less oily failure, more delightful cheese texture.

But whatever. We realize some people regard American cheese singles, despite being engineered specifically for this use, to be unworthy of burgers in this lofty price range.

Further cheese faux pas are to be found in The Gambler (RMB88) a double-fried buttermilk fried chicken thigh tossed in Frank's Red Hot Sauce and butter, with blue cheese sauce: essentially a buffalo wing in burger form.

In practice, the unpleasantly sharp cheese sauce lacked the voluptuous creaminess of a blue cheese dip. Careless thick wedges of lettuce and unseasoned slaw provided vegetal wetness that literally dampened the fried chicken parade.

However, there are burgers they get right. While not the world's best-looking burger, The Frenchy (RMB128), with its seared foie gras and berry-infused sauce was a much better balance of flavors.

Even the ridiculous 'Double Happiness' (RMB168) – a double cheese burger sandwiched between two grilled cheese sandwiches – was quite good thanks to mellow and sweet maple bacon.

The best, however, is the 'Red Claw' lobster roll (RMB118). We loved the buttery and soft brioche bun, which, in a rather loving touch is also buttered on the outside. Inside it filled with lusciously juicy lobster meat, simply flavored with chopped onions and judiciously portioned mayonnaise.

Food Verdict: 1.5/3

The Vibe

While we can certainly see ourselves returning for their lobster roll, there's not a lot else that could stop us swerving Butcher's Club for Shanghai's better burger spots. It's a shame really, since this isn't a restaurant that's trying to cheat diners into parting with cash for ungenerous portions or bad quality ingredients.

Vibe Verdict: 1/2