The Place
Lots of places attempt to corner the market for serving restaurant quality food as well as craft cocktails – sky-high rent mean restaurateurs can’t afford not to. From the same owner as Bar No.3, newly opened Black Bird on Wulumuqi Nan Lu (Madison’s former temporary digs) makes it look easy, with their stunning casual restaurant, café and cocktail bar.
The Food
Led by Italian chef and Pavarotti lookalike Stefano Giovannelli (formerly of The Press) and assisted by Alberto Donagrandi, the menu is brief and homely but due to expand in the coming months. ‘Small’ eats consist of things like sausage stuffed Portobello mushrooms (RMB58), Piedmontese classic bagna cauda (RMB58) and baked grapes with honey vinaigrette drizzled Brie (RMB78).
Super rich and melty, we loved this but couldn’t imagine eating a whole one by ourselves. It’s also crying out to be served with bread so make sure to ask for some; on our visit they gave us a deliciously malty toasted sourdough and didn’t charge extra.
Lighter palates will be drawn to dainty bites like smoked salmon salad (RMB78), served with mandolin-sliced raw butter mushrooms, pine nuts and Parmesan chips. Texturally this dish was a delight, but a touch more salmon next time please.
Mains consist of hearty, appetite-sating plates such as lemon BBQ chicken legs, excellent value at RMB86. That price gets you two meaty chicken legs, crunchy potato medallions roasted with bay leaves, roasted tomato and slivers of zucchini.
Way up the price ladder is tagliata beef platter (RMB190), with fresh chimichurri, tzatziki and salted Chinese spices on the side. By itself this was tasty, but the price seems a little disproportionate. Thrifty diners would be best sticking to the plentiful mid-range options instead.
Food aside, there’s also a nice selection of Italian coffees from RMB18 as well as single origin drip coffee from RMB46 and freshly squeezed orange juice for RMB36. Sadly, resident mixologist Xian Gong is buzai during the day, meaning you’ll have to wait until 6pm to sample his extensive list of libations, some of which are quite similar to Bar No.3’s and start from RMB78 (wine from RMB68).
Food verdict: 2/3
Vibe
Making excellent use of the space, the vibe at Black Bird is elegant and yet totally comfortable; monochrome without being cold or austere and flooded with natural light. There are plenty of proper tables for diners, comfy banquettes and couches with low tables for coffee or cocktails. Call us breathless, but it’s basically the perfect spot for a weekend afternoon.
Vibe Verdict: 1/1
Value for Money
There are two routes to take at Black Bird. Eating frugally, with say, one dish and a coffee or cocktail you’re looking at RMB100-150 per person. Budget be damned, you could easily rack up a bill three times that with steak and cocktails. The choice is yours, but it’s nice to find a spot where you have both options.
Value for Money: 1/1
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB150-350 per person
Who’s going: young expats and locals
Good for: brunch, coffee, hangouts, cocktails, casual dining
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