Shanghai Restaurant Review: Bumbu

By Tongfei Zhang, July 7, 2015

The place

Tucked away on an underground floor opposite Nanjing Xi Lu’s fake market, Bumbu is a low-key Indonesian restaurant opened by a father and daughter duo bringing authentic and affordable Indonesian fare to Shanghai.

Despite their quaint backstory, the inside feels remarkably contemporary – no tacky grass mats or tropical mirage posters here. It’s also proving reasonably popular thus far, with area locals becoming regular customers.

The food

Start with perkedel jagung (corn cakes, RMB25/four pieces) and find fresh corn kernels, celery and shallots coated in special ‘bumbu’ spicy batter. Deep-fried to golden, the palm-sized cakes are good enough without dipping them in the spicy, umami-rich soy dressing (although, by all means, go right ahead).

We weren’t initially taken in by the idea of the sop buntut (ox-tail soup, RMB58) with secret sauce, but we have to admit that we were pretty impressed. Simmered for six hours, the clear but rich broth sees ox-tail bones coated with tender meat. It is hearty, savory and utterly hard to resist.

A number of curry dishes can be found on menu as well, such as the classic rendang stew (beef cubes with coconut, RMB78/180g) and gulai kambing (stewed lamb in curry and coconut milk, RMB68). The bebek penyet (deep-fried duck, RMB78) was a bit dry, but the nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice, RMB58) is a must-order and good for sharing.

Food verdict: 2/3

The vibe

Being inside what feels like an office building, this isn’t the most enticing place to dine. But with their attentive, welcoming service, we can tell the owners are trying to create a warm Indonesian atmosphere as best they can.
We like the customer care they delivered, and saw smiles on guests’ faces as they took off.

Vibe verdict: 0.5/1

Value for money

A measure of Bumbu’s authenticity derives from a culinary team hailing from Indonesia, making dishes as they would back home without befalling the dreaded fate of ‘localization.’ Considering the prime location on Nanjing Xi Lu, Bumbu is relatively affordable, and office workers will no doubt appreciate the dozen or so lunch sets priced from RMB40.

Value for money: 0.5/1