Aside from the occasional Mongol sheep bought for slaughter, those on the Caravan trails linking Beijing with the Silk Road lived on an uninspired diet of oat and millet flour. Scurvy was a common problem on camel trains. Too few fruits and vegetables, apparently.
It was a tough existence and the opening of the Peking-Kalgan railway in 1909 cemented the humble caravan’s demise. But, over a hundred years later, it returns to Beijing by way a new venture from CuJu owner Badr Benjelloun... on its logo at least. Two camels face in opposite directions and – given that the food is an almost even split between Moroccan and Cajun – perhaps one of them is headed for Louisiana.
And how times have changed. Caravan may not boast a fruit-and-veg-heavy menu but there is just enough vitamin C here to keep scurvy at bay. Better still, there is an abundance of Mongol meat this time around. Almost all of it is slow-cooked and benefits from hours’ worth of preparation time – Benjelloun must relish having a kitchen bigger than his entire first premises.
His unhurried approach pays dividends. The shredded duck sat atop the penne du batou is tender, well-paired with a marinara sauce, and emboldened by a Cajun kick. More successfully, the slow-roasted mechoui lamb almost falls off the bone; an excellently cooked shank lent a sweet twist by a honey and raisin glaze.
Elsewhere, the fare hints at contrast and combination. We try a decent Cajun chicken salad that balances spice with flavors prone to dominating, such as onion and horseradish (the latter in the form of a creamy remoulade). On the sweeter side of the menu, the banana flambe with rum-raisin ice cream excels on the hot/cold front, with cracked pepper adding a little more complexity.
Neither desert nor oasis, the interior is tasteful enough. Dark woods and reds offset cream walls lined with black-and-white photographs, giving the restaurant something of a Mediterranean taverna-vibe. The focal point is a rather charming central bar, its main surfaces and shelves made from a repurposed siheyuan door.
But the food alone will surely secure the restaurant’s place in the capital’s dining carousel, for now. With plenty of nearby embassies and faithful CuJu-ites willing to venture out from the hutongs, we suspect this Caravan won’t be off anywhere soon.
Price
Dinner set: RMB120 for two courses, RMB150 for three; lunch set: RMB68 for two courses, RMB98 for three
Who’s Going
Hungry diplomats, camel-pullers, Badr’s mates
Good For
Slow-cooked meat, avoiding scurvy
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Images by Holly Li
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