Fusion is a word, in the Beijing food world at least, that often leads to a roll of the eyes quickly followed by a cynical remark. So imagine how we felt when we heard there was a new ‘fusion’ restaurant in town – and in 798 of all places. We’ve seen ‘fusion’ before, and rarely does it excite.
But then we try Claret. The ‘fusion’ restaurant is by the same folks behind Chaoyang Park fave Deli de Luxe and, with the 798 backdrop, one would expect its dishes to reflect its creative surrounds. Thankfully, Claret delivers.
Looking at the menu, fusion doesn’t exactly leap off the page. However, we look closer and start to notice things we have never heard of, let alone eaten. Lycium ruthenicum (or Russian box thorn), Euryale ferox (also known as fox nut) and shepherd’s purse appear alongside the more familiar-sounding beef short rib and asparagus.
The restaurant serves a bi-weekly seasonal tasting menu (RMB350) alongside an a la carte menu, the latter containing lighter options from bowls of pasta to open sandwiches.
Claret itself is airy with laidback vibes. Located inside new shared space Aio, the restaurant is spread across three floors. The ground floor contains most of the inside seating, and a third floor houses a large roof terrace and the banqueting room.
The a la carte menu definitely feels like an extension of Deli de Luxe. The feta and pumpkin quiche (RMB55) is fine. The pastry is well-made and the filling is perfectly adequate. The a la carte is serviceable for a post-art session bite. Grab a big glass of wine, maybe one of their open sandwiches (RMB65) and hang out on the rooftop terrace where you can pretend to be one of those arty types.
The tasting menu, on the other hand, is more sophisticated. The arrowhead, bamboo shoots and Lycium ruthenicum jelly is fantastic. The jelly – made from a berry found in the wild parts of Northern and Western China – provides a nice balance. The salty deep-fried arrowhead partners well with the sweet lavender-tasting jelly. This sweet and savory contrast is found throughout the tasting menu, even in the dessert: The homemade chocolate balls with black garlic cheese, roasted sweet pepper and a matcha sauce epitomize the menu. It shouldn’t work but it does.
The tasting menu changes every two weeks, which may give rise to questions regarding consistency, but if the three head chefs at Claret continue to emphasize locally-sourced ingredients and unique Chinese flavors, then Claret may just be a success.
See a listing for Claret and read more Beijing Bar & Restaurant Reviews
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