There’s no Baidu listing. There are no Dianping deals. There’s not even a sign on the door.
In fact, Yunnanese restaurant Youyun is trying pretty hard not to be found. And while speakeasies are nothing new in Beijing’s bar scene, when it comes to high-end dining, the motivation seems altogether more novel.
Deep in a labyrinth of alleys south of Gui Jie, Youyun isn’t hiding for the sake of gimmickry. This isn’t a ‘concept’ – it’s just kinda exclusive. It’s a spot for schmoozing with officials. It’s a spot for celebrating lucrative business deals. It’s a spot for impressing visitors with your in-depth knowledge of the hutongs. And if that doesn’t resemble your life, then fear not: it’s also just a great spot for a quiet lunch.
Assuming you can find your way here (see address here; call in advance for reservations), you’ll be rewarded with a tranquil courtyard dotted with understated decorations, spotless white walls and wooden fixtures. The restaurant’s decor is traditional, certainly. But there are contemporary twists too: The minimalist plating, the curved seats, and the abstract, asymmetric artwork hung from timber ceiling beams.
Having opened at the start of winter (yes, it took us that long to find it), the advent of spring is a game-changer here. As well as offering al fresco dining, there’s an endearing little terrace elevated above the surrounding roofs. It’s accessed through a stairwell that wraps itself around an old tree trunk, like a treehouse for grown-ups.
A great place, then, for an aperitif (or digestif, depending on which way you swing). But you’ll want a full table for your meal, because this will be an elaborate multi-course affair. And while the menu hosts a plentiful a la carte selection, this restaurant is all about the sets. From a RMB99 afternoon tea to a RMB3,988, 14-person extravaganza, you get the feeling that they want to curate an experience.
We suggest you oblige (although in the name of thorough restaurant-reviewing, we sample dishes from across the menu), because Youyun’s various sets offer a fascinating variety of Yunnanese fare. Drawing influence from the kaleidoscopic flavors of Dai cuisine, the food here is consistently excellent, delicate and, at times, surprising.
Among the standout dishes is the fried beef with Japanese banana flowers, and a tilapia served with citronella and a wickedly spicy dipping sauce. Elsewhere, the cured ham sings with deep flavor, and – we mean this – the chicken feet are some of the best we’ve ever tried.
So, there you have it: We’ve just given away one of the hutongs’ best-kept secrets. And you know what? We don’t feel that bad about it either.
READ MORE: 9 Authentic & Delicious Yunnanese Restaurants in Beijing
See a listing for Youyun & read more Beijing Restaurant Reviews
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