Mifan or Mafan: Little Yunnan

Whoever realized that Dongzhimen needed a Yunnanese restaurant – and then opened one – should be applauded. But whoever (and we accept that this may be the same person) allowed patrons to doodle all over the walls of said restaurant is, quite frankly, an idiot. The decision means that one-third of this otherwise charming hutong spot feels like a backpacker dive. The food is also hit-and-miss, though some of Yunnan’s classics have been done justice.

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