There’s no particularly rich tradition of cuisine in South Africa… it’s a bit like Australian food”: I’m in Pinotage, a swish, modern, high-ceilinged South African restaurant in Sanlitun’s SOHO that doesn’t feel remotely Australian – although they do serve pies (more on that later) – accompanied by JG, a South African Beijinger who’s been in China almost as long as Kenny G (there’s an uncanny resemblance).
Unlike Kenny G albums, South African cuisine has an interesting genealogy, being a mix of indigenous African cookery and colonialist cuisine from Dutch Afrikaans, the French, Germans and, of course, their indentured Asian laborers, mostly Malays, Chinese, Indians and Indonesians.
All in all, then, a pretty good potential feast (leaving aside the distinctly-unpalatable slaving history, plus all that rape-amd-murder stuff that sort-of puts us off going). The restaurant’s location in SOHO (they have another in Shunyi) might sound a trifle off-putting – especially if you’ve trekked through endless empty corridors in ghost malls, seeking out lunch dates like Indiana Jones – but the storefront location on the far east, next to the Canon shop, means it’s a cinch to find for those who usually swan round the Village (now Tai Koo Li), looking for lunch deals.
Although a two-course set menu is available (RMB100), we dipped into a series of signature dishes from their (slightly naffly named) S.E.T a la carte menu; the concept is that each is available in either Share (3-4 persons), Enjoy (solo) or Taste (taster) helpings.
The first courses arrived quickly on wooden cheese boards. Almost too quickly – though maybe not fast enough for JG, who was mid-way through appreciating the Biltong Carpaccio (RMB180/90/45) before I could even spear my first Lamb Shank Dumpling (RMB150/75/35). The latter, full of dark chunks and swathed in a tomato-and-red-wine sauce, could hardly have tasted less Chinese than it sounded. The tangy sauce got us going: there was something South African here (though what it was, wasn’t exactly clear).
The biltong (“the Champagne of meats,” pictured right) was just-so, chewy with a tender pink interior; the Parmesan slices, avocado puree and ‘balsamic caviar,’ while decidenly non-traditional, added welcome texture. One highlight was the Roasted Bone Marrow (RMB200/100/50), magnificently served on a spliced shinbone and topped with salt, braised oxtail and chanterelle mushrooms. The accompanying toast resembled ridged chips; all it lacked was fresh parsley. One hopes the kitchen takes note.
The bobotie (currently off-menu) was probably the most South African dish, a Cape Malay curried-meat pie served on curled vetkoek (deep-fried dough) with, here, a puff-pastry topping, that seemed a touch dry but was otherwise judged “authentic – a good mix of light spices”; I’d like some kind of gravy on the side but then, I’m British. The same goes for the Venison Wellington (RMB350/175/85), a generous slice of tender game wrapped in more pastry with, admittedly, a red-wine jus, but crying out for that red-wine dumpling sauce. The Malay Chicken, meanwhile, suffered was tangy, juicy and ill-served by us, stuffed as the Wellington by this time – you won’t leave hungry.
A return visit tackled some of the weekend brunch offerings, including pig’s trotter (RMB120), beautifully served with diced cucumber-and-egg and crackling (ftw), and a grainy “foot-long” boerie hot dog (RMB120) which we made a great big mess of fighting over.
With its sharing style, it’s advisable to order as you go, rather than risk leaving with a doggie bag. But however you decide to approach Pinotage, you will certainly not regret it.
// Daily 11am-1am. Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No. 8 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District [u]朝阳区工体北路[u]8[u]号三里屯[u]SOHO2[u]号楼[u]2-105 (5785 3538)
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