The Place
Riding on the coattails of the opening of Korean fine dining establishment NABI, chef Tom Ryu (NABI, Genesis Restaurant, and previously of Jeju Sagye and Pado) has done it again, with the soft opening of WULI, just below it in the same WYSH complex on Wuyi Lu.
READ MORE: NABI: Chef Tom Ryu's Korean Fine Dining Masterwork
Meaning 'we, together,' or '我们, 一起' in Chinese, WULI is purely traditional, authentic Korean cuisine. More approachable than NABI, the menu centers around the concept of sharing – hence the name.
Chef Tom Ryu. Image courtesy of WULI
Image courtesy of WULI
The result is a table covered edge to edge in colorful banchan, rice dishes, soups, stews, and meats, with most dishes clocking in at under RMB100.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Taking it back to his roots with pan-Korean classics (think kimchi soup, bulgogi, and bibimbap) this is Ryu’s first Shanghai foray into casual fare – WULI is an everyday outpost, its pocket-friendly prices welcoming families, pets, and the work-from-home contingency from morning until night.
The Food
The menu is all about Korean comfort eats. “It’s the food I grew up eating,” says Ryu, while mixing an oozing egg into still-steaming rice bibimbap, the glossy yolk film unctuously coating each kernel. “It’s what I crave, the kind of food I want to – and do – eat every day.”
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
An equally fresh and filling Korean street food, the Dumpling Salad (RMB45) is an ingenious pairing of julienned vegetables (cucumbers, carrots, sprouts, and lettuce) encircled by fried pork dumplings – making it all the easier to get in your daily serving of five.
A tangy gochujang sauce is tossed tableside as a dressing of sorts, an appreciated addition that bridges the crisp veggies and equivalently crackly-coated dumplings.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Springy buckwheat noodles are served cold as the Beef Bulgogi Bibim Naengmyeon (RMB58), sheathed by marinated bulgogi, shaved daikon, sheets of Asian pear, and a dollop of fiery gochujang paste that imparts a juxtaposing chili spice.
Purposefully served long and thin, wrapped in whorls over and onto themselves, the noodles represent longevity of life and long-lasting good health.
Alternative renditions are also available in a demurely sweet cold beef bone broth as the Pork Jeyuk Mul Naengmyeon (RMB58).
Homemade Hot Sauce Bibimbap (RMB45). Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
An aromatic Perilla Gamja Tang (RMB85) pork bone soup is thickened by slowly simmered pork ribs, the smarmy marrow melting into the broth. The resulting rich soup is laden with potatoes, zucchini, perilla leaves and toasted sesame powder – the epitome of hearty.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Originating as Korean royal court cuisine, the Yukgaejang (RMB72) is all about the homemade brisket broth, a time-consuming process that makes it all the rarer to track down outside of Korea.
The fat-pleated brisket reduces to shreds, thickening into a stew of sorts, supplemented by leeks, burdock root and assorted seasonal veg.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Served bubbling, the Seafood Tofu Soup (RMB68) shines crimson red, a result of homemade dadeagi chili paste that lends a nip of both sweet and heat.
The warming anchovy broth is brimming with clams, minced pork, soft-boiled egg, vegetables, and the requisite freshly curdled silken tofu – known as sundubu – a myriad of fragrances that pulls diners in for another spoonful.
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Taking advantage of the leftover marinated pork off-cuts that still pack a flavor punch, the Pork Belly Kimchi Jeon (RMB45) is a rust-colored pancake, its ruddy hue owed to fiery homemade kimchi.
Served up piping hot, flaky, and glistening with an oil sheen, the homemade soy sauce pickles on the side cut through the smarminess.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
An ode to Korean BBQ – a must at any genuine Korean establishment – the charred-edged Bassak Beef Bulgogi (RMB129) is presented on a hot iron plate, strewn with a pine nut crumble and scallions.
First marinated in a proprietary blend of soy sauce, plum, pear, and aromatics, the succulent meat is then grilled to the point of bassak – or brittle crunch in Korean, the ultimate balance of sweet, savory, juicy and crispy.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Unadulterated comfort is a bowl of viscous juk – the Samgye Porridge (RMB65) – a mouthful as velvety as whipped potatoes.
Similar to Chinese congee (zhou 粥), this comforting rice porridge is imbued with the flavors of samgyetang – or ginseng chicken soup – customarily augmented by garlic and jujube.
However, instead of stuffing ginseng-laced glutinous rice inside a whole young chicken, at WULI it is reversed, with chicken pieces stewed into the juk, along with more shredded chicken adorning the top.
True to Ryu’s philosophy of “if it can be made in house, it will be,” all accoutrement – from Korean chili pastes to banchan to marinades and sauces – are made with only the highest quality ingredients and sans preservatives or flavor enhancers.
And said banchan – like pickled perilla leaves, homemade kimchi and salty pickles – add a welcomed pop of brightness to the porridge’s creaminess.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The first of many Korean desserts to come, the Mango Bingsoo (RMB38) is a frozen mound of milky shaved ice draped in sliced mango and a yuzu sauce, just in time for summer.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Korean spirit-forward cocktails reign supreme on the drinks roster, like the Jeju Fizz (RMB79) – a bubbly libation of Misang 25, St. Germain, Cointreau, Yeoyoo Soju and Lemon – and the at once savory and sour Yeoyoo Coconut Soup (RMB79) – Yeoyoo Soju 40, Mezcal, coconut water, clarified tomato juice and lime.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
There’s also an extensive section of Korean spirits by the Bottle (RMB128-588) – a benefit of Chef Ryu’s Korean spirit import business, ensuring diners at his venues get their hands on only the best – plus Korean Sool Cocktail Shot Sets (RMB88/6 shots), and Korean Beers (RMB38/glass).
And this is just the debut menu. In the coming months, Ryu will launch lunch, brunch and delivery menus, in addition to expanding the current dinner menu offerings.
The Vibe
Although this is Ryu’s first time sidestepping fine dining (well, sort of – NABI is located just upstairs and he regularly floats between the two), WULI is equally – if not more – worth a visit, because of its affability.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The design collaboration with Kaylee Kwihyun Lee, KOLLAB Creative Design Studio, beautifully merges traditional Korean aesthetics and contemporary design elements, crafting a cozy space that seamlessly integrates the charm of Hanok houses yet with a more modern style through terrazzo flooring, softly arched wooden cladding and ceiling beams, and a stone foundation. The design evokes a sense of nostalgia and complements the bona fide Korean food being served.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The spacious bar opens to both the indoor dining area and a large outdoor patio, providing a laid-back setting for social gatherings, coupled with a communal meal amongst family and friends.
The slogan of the venue – around which all details orbit – is jeongseong (정성), meaning "made with our hearts." And that’s exactly what WULI is about – served in the form a Hanjeongsik experience – a full course meal that showcases Korea’s robust culinary heritage, no modern twist necessary.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image courtesy of WULI
Bringing a taste of Koreatown even closer to downtown, WULI also boasts the added bonus of an elegant restaurant setting; a gorgeous terrace with both table and bench seating (ideal for sipping, snacking, working – or all three, we don’t judge); stellar service; and the best lineup of soju, Korean rice wine, cheongju, and makgeolli available in China.
Price: RMB48-128
Who’s Going: The South Korean expat contingency, fangirls (and boys) of Chef Tom Ryu, Xuhui dwellers of all ages
Good For: Everyday Korean food fixes, Korean spirit consumption, casual comfort eats
WULI, #101 WYSH, 168 Wuyi Lu, by Dingxi Lu, 武夷路168号WYSH翡悦里1层101室, 近定西路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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