The Place
Celebrated three Michelin-starred chef Paul Pairet (Ultraviolet, Mr & Mrs Bund, Polux, Charbon) has opened a new concept in Pudong, Roodoodoo – an all-day, every day snack and bakery-centric casual dining concept in IFC Mall.
Supported by the VOL Group, this is Pairet’s first stint in Pudong since he left Jade on 36 (for the VOL Group) all the way back in 2008.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A kind of amalgamation of his other venues, the space combines a coffee shop, sandwicherie and deli, restaurant, bar and ice cream parlor – plus the new addition of a patisserie / boulangerie with baked in-house daily breads, cakes, tarts and viennoiseries (French breakfast pastries) for dine-in, delivery or takeaway.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
It's less of a question of what it is and more of a question of what it’s not, as Roodoodoo covers all the Paul Pairet bases with five menus – count ‘em – for different times of the day:
Breakfast: 9-11am
Lunch: 11am-2pm
Afternoon Tea & Snacks: 2-5pm
Dinner: 5-9pm
Drinks: All day, every day, from coffee to cocktails, and everything in between
And, if that isn’t enough, the team is expanding further with a terrace once the weather warms.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pulling most from Paul Pairet's answer to a casual French café, the Shanghai institution that is Polux, Roodoodoo can be seen as an extension, with an emphasis on simple yet expertly executed, all-day snacks and sips.
The Food
Given that there are five menus, it would take a small army of That’s Shanghai editors to sample all of it; unfortunately, we neglected to call up the reserves for this one (although we should have) – so here’s a high-level overview of what you can expect throughout the day.
Dirty Coffee (RMB38), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The morning begins with an expansive selection of coffee and tea drinks ranging from the customary Americano (RMB28) to the whimsical Coffee Chantilly (RMB48) – a Brazilian coffee Americano topped with vanilla bean-flecked Chantilly cream; from the indulgent Coffee Affogato (RMB58) – with diner’s choice of ice cream flavor – to the Nitro Coffee (RMB58).
Almonds Croissant (RMB32), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
In addition to Breakfast Sets (RMB48-188) of baked pastries, toasts and juices, there’s the American Breakfast (RMB188) – with grilled sausage and bacon, fried eggs on toast, mushrooms, tomatoes, lettuce and mash.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Or push the boat out with the protein-loaded Rich Man’s Breakfast (RMB178) – a medium-rare flank steak, fried egg, and mashed potatoes all dribbled in beef jus.
Croque Madame (RMB108), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Other egg-based morning bites, open-faced toasts, pastries, and sweets are also part of the early morning lineup.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Breakfast’s answer to Pairet’s famed Real French Toast (RMB98) is the XL Pancake & Milk Ice Cream (RMB78), a fluffy flapjack with that same signature torched sugar shell that flecks off like saccharine glass, melting on the tongue.
An impressive breakfast assortment... yet lunch is the main event here, pulling in the Pudong working crowd and making it a chore to score one of the 70 coveted seats.
But, it’s worth it for the fare – food that comes out fast, fresh and full-flavor.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Lunch starters span the Avocado Cantine (RMB78) – a whole avo sliced lengthwise, the pit’s space filled with a zingy mustard sorbet, drizzled with a signature housemade soy, olive oil, fish sauce and vinegar blend known as 'Asiate' sauce…
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
… to the Leeks Mimosa (RMB58) – the choicest part of the center of the leeks charred over an open flame, anchored to the plate by a soy aioli.
Crunchy hazelnuts, chervil greens, and a crumbled egg yolk 'mimosa' adorn the top.
Roasted BB Capsicums (RMB48), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Displayed on the counter, diner-style, Mr & Mrs Bund’s head chef Alexis’ take on Quiche Lorraine (RMB78) is a textbook example of this French tart – a buttery flaked crust encasing a mix of eggs, nutmeg-spiked cream, bacon, pancetta, and seemingly the entire block of gruyère, plated with a frisée salad.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Substantial in heft, Daniel’s Philly Cheese-Steak Sandwich (RMB108) has quickly become an internet sensation – thin ribbons of sliced and seared rib-eye steak tossed with caramelized onions and peppers before being deglazed in more of that addictingly umami Asiaste sauce.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A gruyère cheese blend is melted over the meat, dribbling down the sides of the toasted brioche bun, leaving diners sticky and satisfied.
Grilled Salmon Béarnaise (RMB168), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The sweet side of things runs all day, with pastries like Quentin’s Paris-Brest (RMB78), a Raspberry Tartlet (RMB58), Babka Cholate (RMB38), and Gâteau Basque Sables (RMB48) for dine-in or take-away, among a glass display case chalk-full of many other desserts.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
And pulling from global skewers and soft serve bistro Charbon, there’s an ample offering of said soft serves to choose from – cold treats that can be enjoyed on their own, mixed with other flavors, served in a shake (with or without booze) or as a sundae.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
And because every good restaurant needs drink pairings, there’s Wine by the Glass (RMB48-98) and by the bottle (mostly falling in the RMB350-550 range), Tap Beers and Tap Cocktails (RMB48-88), plus juices and sodas.
The Vibe
The brightly lit space is functionally decorated, the pastel-hued tabletops augmented by tinted glass dishware, and the sun reflecting off the floor and ceiling-lined mirrors.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
In addition to semi-booths and square-top tables, there are also diner-style leather barstools for high tops and window-facing counter seating opposite the partially open kitchen and bar.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Roodoodoo is pumping at all hours of the day – especially lunch time – with visitors popping by for anything from a coffee to go to a full dinner with wine pairing.
And, while those in Puxi may grumble about having to cross the river for the latest from Paul Pairet, it’s high time Pudongers got an easily-accessible taste of all that this Shanghai superstar has to offer.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Price: RMB50-300
Who’s Going: Those working near IFC Mall, Paul Pairet acolytes, afternoon sweet-toothers
Good For: Casual catch-ups, French fare, satisfying Polux cravings on Shanghai’s east side of the river
Roodoodoo, LG1-40, B1, IFC Mall, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu 世纪大道8号, 近陆家嘴环路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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