Off the vine: Baron de Ley Reserva Rioja

Rioja is a classic Spanish wine and often overlooked. Grown in the continental climate to the south of the Cantabrian Mountains, its making is an ancient tradition dating back to the Phoenicians. Choosing one can be a touch confusing, as the varietal is classified by age: as the name implies, gran reserva is the distinguished elder, matured for at least five years and within strict regulations, right down to the type of oak. Reserva has had at least three years in oak barrels, giving complexity and earthiness. Crianza is more casual with one oaky year and joven is young, lively and the cheapest of all.

Baron de Ley’s Reserva demands respect right from the opening move – an attack which is truly powerful and develops into a pleasant sensation of volume. This drives us to a long finish, nervous and fresh due to its optimum acidity, but bringing back an aftertaste with red fruits. This is a big but elegant wine and it can handle pairings running from spicy to sweet, meats to stews and, of course, all manner of tapas.

// Jebsen Fine Wines, 28/F, Tower B, China International Centre, 33 Zhongshan San Lu, Yuexiu District 越秀区中山三路33号中华国际中心B塔28楼 (8713 7155, www.jebsen-finewines.com)