When you are looking for a bar in Shenzhen that has that je ne sais quoi, OCT-Loft is probably your best bet. Home to a number of underground watering holes, it now also hosts an establishment straight out of Narnia. Remember how in the book an old closet hid the gateway to a magical world? In this case, the closet is an antique shop and the magical world is a well-stocked whisky bar.
If you are a frequent visitor to the Loft, you’ve probably passed Fannou House on more than one occasion without giving it a proper look. Unless, that is, you were hoping to splurge on an antique table.
Now, however, there are more affordable reasons to take a peek behind the shop’s modest door. Inside, the modern buzz of the surrounding district fades away and you are welcomed into a 19th-century setting. A 200-year-old piano dominates the center of the room, while the bar counter is set in front of a large shelved wall showcasing all the whiskies the house has to offer.
As we stand hypnotized by sparkling glass bottles and posh labels, we are approached by Roy Song, Fannou House’s blender-in-chief. He serves us our first treat of the evening, a “ladies’ special”: blackcurrant (RMB60), a fruity cocktail that starts out with a fresh, berry-sweet flavor, leaving the stronger alcohol notes for last.
“I always consider a customer’s personality before suggesting a cocktail,” Song says, as he tops off our blackcurrant with rose petals.
The cocktail that follows is a custom creation of the master blender himself. Named Fannou fashion (RMB80), the drink is more on the classically bitter side and comes accompanied by dried apricots to balance the taste. If a look at the cocktail menu does not have you immediately settled on a drink, you can simply tell the bartender what you fancy and your signature blend will appear on the table.
As Roy is preparing us another house specialty – a feisty anise tini (RMB80) – he introduces the bar’s rare whisky selection, including the famous Talisker 10 Year Old (RMB80 per glass), imported all the way from the Isle of Skye and boasting a spicy and fresh taste with a tangy peat.
Though a drink at Fannou House is on the pricey side compared to the typical after-work spots, it’s also a lot more atmospheric. Close your eyes and imagine you are Rick Blaine or Ilsa Lund, preparing to escape Casablanca. And so what if your plane is an MTR tram and your destination not Paris but Huangbeiling? Here, in the dimly lit interior of Fannou House, anything is possible. At least while the drinks last!
Price: RMB150
Who’s going: Whisky lovers, appreciators of the antique
Good for: Cocktails, daydreaming, theme parties
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