New restaurant: Pizzeria Alla Torre

By Christine Gilbert, September 8, 2015

"I’m going to make you an offer,” Pizzeria Alla Torre’s Italian chef, Maria, tells us as we sit in the dining room of the Sea World branch. We look around at the man fixing the wall with a drill gun, the boxes of indiscernible fixtures by the door, the cushions piled on the other tables and bar in an effort to keep them dry from the rain. Since Alla Torre’s still in its soft opening stage, there aren’t many customers, meaning we have a clear shot to bolt to the door if the next words out of her mouth are “you can’t refuse.”

Pizza!

“Would you like to sit in the air condition?” she says. We like this woman already. She leads us to a table beneath a working unit, with a front-row view of the Minghua ship and Sea World’s harbor. For those wanting to sit closer, Alla Torre boasts a wooden deck outside, complete with low, square couches and comfortable cushions, a prime spot for the night water shows.

Maria makes us the insalata di bufala e pomodorini confit (RMB55) to start with, a fresh mix of tender greens, Italian ham, cluster tomatoes, red onion and buffalo mozzarella that’s full of wonderful textures and drizzled with vinaigrette dressing. Next, we take a piece of the margherita pizza, biting into a perfect medley of tomatoes, basil and mozzarella all spread on a thin crust, at once crisp yet melt-in-the-mouth.

More pizza follows with a slice of the prosciutto crudo (RMB78/8 inches, RMB118/12 inches), topped with Parma ham, cherry tomatoes, fresh basil and shaved Parmesan cheese. Though light, the ham makes it hearty and the tomatoes add a touch of natural sweetness.

We sit back and savor our glass of Botter Prosecco (RMB38), relishing its honeysuckle notes as we talk to Maria about her early days in cooking school and working London kitchens. With her direction, we feel confident Alla Torre will eventually fulfill the cosmopolitan vibe it’s going for, after all the opening kinks get worked out. Until then, take advantage of their pizza offers: 40 percent off from September 1 to 14 and 30 percent off from September 16 until the end of the month.

Price: RMB200 or more for dinner for two

Who’s going: Families, couples, water show observers

Good for: Italian food, fresh ingredients, deck dining

// For address, see listing.