Well, it looks like upmarket Italian 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombanahas finally got a rival in Shanghai. Much like Otto in Hong Kong, Da Ivo is an exceptionally popular restaurant in its original location – Venice in this case – with the concept being packaged up and installed in Shanghai for your dégustation.
Iconic for its staunchly defended culinary traditions, Da Ivo 1.0 is frequented by illustrious VIPs and celebs alike, including George Clooney, Christina Aguilera and Tom Cruise. Even Rufus Wainwright’s been in on the action. It’s also known for being expensive despite its quaint trattoria appearances.
Set on the 23rd floor of Les Suites Orients hotel on the Bund, the views from the new Shanghai Da Ivo are, in our experience totally unrivalled, with breathtaking views of both sides of the Huangpu River available from every window in the restaurant, including the toilets in case you were wondering. If these views weren’t enough of a draw, Da Ivo’s gone for a flamboyant décor scheme that Gianni Versace himself would be proud of.
Gold, black, crystal and Venetian glass accents adorn seemingly every available surface. It’s a far cry from the original… until you turn a corner into a back room, which has been plate for plate replicated from the quaint Venetian original, right down to the exact same tablecloths, furniture, and copper pots hanging on the walls. Despite its more down to earth appearances, at RMB1,600 (plus 15 percent service charge!) per person, the menu in this room is prix fixe and significantly more expensive than the main dining room.
We opted for the ‘cheaper’ à la carte option in the main restaurant, and were pleasantly surprised by the quality of food.
Highlights included sweet red shrimps (RMB198), a meaty and generous beef Carpaccio (RMB188) and an enormous bone-in veal Milanese with plum tomato salad (RMB328).
When we attempted to order Venetian squid ink risotto (RMB198), the suited waiter suggested we try the white truffle version instead. Nice and attentive, right? The only trouble with this was that he neglected to mention that this risotto comes in at RMB950, the price of which we discovered upon receiving the bill.
Despite being slightly small in size for its price, the risotto in question was breathtakingly delicious (maybe even perfect).
Worth RMB950? We’re not sure. But it showed that 63-year-old head chef Mama Giorgina certainly knows what she’s doing in the kitchen.
Last up was a dessert titled ‘The imagining of the Chef on Venetian mirror’ for RMB288, which turned out to be miniature versions of the other desserts, laid out on a ridiculously long mirror that barely fit on the table.
Ultimately, Da Ivo is a good restaurant, the quality of both food and service well above our expectations. The only problem is the price. It’s incredibly expensive, even factoring in the location (our meal wound up at RMB2,300). However, for those looking for an authentic, if ostentatious bite of Venice, then Da Ivo is worth a visit.
Price: RMB400-800 per person
Who’s going: Well-heeled Chinese clientele
Good for: Dates, business dinner, special occasions
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