The Place
Alors is a modern Chinese wine bistro that opened in early summer just down Gate 1 in Tianzifang, backed by wine expert Franklin Chiang (Next Bottle), chef Bingjia and designer Ting Ting.
The trio all previously studied in France, and have built a connection between French and Chinese cuisines, wine and culture, right here in Shanghai.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The wine program is 100% French, with 70% natural wines and 30% conventional wines, plus no shortage of champagne, of course.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
And the name? It comes from the commonly used filler word "alors..." that is used by many a French person without realizing, meaning "so, then, well."
A word that is so simple, yet embodies an integral part of the French language – the same ethos the team aims to capture in their venue.
The Food & Wine
While Alors is undoubtedly a wine bar, the food is truly the highlight, with Zhejiang native chef Bingjia the star of the show. Modest in demeanor, his unassuming character might cause him to be underestimated, when in reality, he’s a BFD.
After attending Ferrandi Paris – one of France’s premier culinary and hospitality schools – he worked at three Michelin starred La Marine, one of Europe’s most prestigious seafood restaurants, located on the tip of Noirmoutier island.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Ever seen the dark comedic horror film The Menu? It might as well be based off of La Marine… minus the *spoiler alert* killing spree.
To put it lightly, chef Bingjia knows his way around a chef’s knife.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
And this is why the venue centers around a large open kitchen with a wine display as the backdrop. An eight-person “chef’s table” experience is nestled right up to the serving counter for groups to appreciate the chef's culinary performance.
Alors is a neighborhood hangout, designed to be a place you can revisit time and again, which is why the menu is purposefully kept small and will change every few weeks.
Dishes are ephemeral, highlighting Chinese ingredients prepared and presented using French techniques, encouraging repeat visits to see what chef Bingjia is up to next.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The roughly 15-item menu is served in tapas-style sharing portions, meant to feed four when ordered in its entirety, and coming out to roughly RMB200 a head.
Similarly, as a bottle of wine contains four (very generous) pours – and with most of the current lineup of 150 distinct bottles falling in the RMB480-680 range – a meal could set you back just RMB300-500 a head, depending on how much you imbibe or abstain.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The meal follows a playful path that weaves through pairings like Squid (RMB78) – “kissed by fire,” swimming through a pool of subtly acerbic green pepper sauce bolstered by century egg for an added oomph in body – with an elusively funky Riesling Alsace, its sharp apple notes whetting the appetite for the first course.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A thick slab of oily Mackerel (RMB78/3 pieces) is tempered by wampee jam – a sour-sweet fruit grown in summertime Guangdong, with citrus undertones but a grape-like consistency that augments a light body southern France "blush red," a tea-like softness in flavor and mouthfeel.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
It’s a challenge to maintain composure around the Roasted Chicken Wing (RMB88), stuffed with a trio of meigan cai – a type of pickled vegetable – water chestnut and minced pork.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Glazed in a beef stock, it’s the umami burst of red meat you taste first, followed by the char of crispy poultry skin and the give of flesh from bone.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Cut into juicy cubes, the Braised Beef Tongue (RMB98) and tendon are cooked fastidiously, with laser precision levels of execution and a spicy tomato and basil oil finish.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Unctuous Duck Confit Spring Rolls (RMB68) are laced with piney sage, an unexpected hint of Sichuan peppercorn juxtaposed against tart red plum jam.
Roasted Pigeon (RMB108), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A play on mian ge da tang (面疙瘩汤), or Xinjiang “dough drops,” the Gnocchi (RMB68) – unlike traditional Italian gnocchi (but like their Xinjiang counterpart) – are made entirely out of pasta dough.
The potato element of the Italian dish comes through in the smarmy potato cream sauce, one that mimics a luscious mac’n’cheese goo.
Together, suan dou jia (酸豆角) – sour green beans – and a dribble of chili oil cut through the richness, so you say 'just one more bite,' but find yourself 10 bites further into the plate than you ever planned to be.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A bowl of delectable contrasts, a moat of whipped mascarpone cream encircled by pleats of sliced strawberries form a base for the Black Sesame Ice Cream (RMB58), adorned with a savory parmesan crisp.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
“The vast world of natural wines reinvigorated and engaged my palate after discovering them five years into my wine industry career," says Franklin, while pouring a hazy, amber-hued fortified wine from southern France, it’s raisin-like aroma elevating the sesame ice cream’s nuttiness.
"They challenged my conception of what wine can be, and I want guests to experience that same unencumbered ‘wine exploration and discovery’ here at Alors.”
As he sets down the wine glass, a splayed corkscrew tattoo in the shape of an F (for Franklin) is illuminated by the ceiling’s track lighting on his forearm – showcasing that wine is a part of the very essence of his – and Alors – being.
Riz au Lait (RMB48), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Vibe
The whimsy décor is a compilation of distressed wood floors, high-back medium-hued wooden chairs and tables (plus a super mod repurposed pew), and navy blue painted exposed brick walls, all brought together by avant-garde touches – like an open-bulb lantern with red feather wings, contemporary collage wall art... and a disco ball, obviously.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
With space for 30, it feels very exclusive and hip – especially as you sip your barnyard-y chilled orange natty while watching neighborhood ayis stroll by in their pajamas.
Then, at 8.30pm, the lights drop and the music is turned up for more of a party vibe and you’re like, oh wait, it is really trendy.
Last order is at 10pm, when the chef’s counter is flipped to a DJ booth.
Grand Opening Details
Starting from August 19, Alors is launching their “street style grand opening month” – with four popups taking place every Saturday for four weeks by...
Yaya’s, August 19
Ambra, August 26
Bastard, September 2
Saleya Bar a Vin, September 9
Special dinner menus will be available each Saturday from 5.30-8.30pm (reserve ahead of time), followed by DJ parties and “street food snacks” from 8.30pm until late.
Price: RMB300-500
Who’s Going: The wine bar contingency, French and natural wine lovers, trendy expats and locals alike
Good For: Date nights, wine-fueled friendly catch-ups, curious foodie outings
Alors, 120-1-1, Bldg 3, Lane 200, Taikang Lu (Gate 1 Tianzifang), by Jianguo Lu 泰康路200弄3号楼120号-1-1室（田子坊1号门,直走,右手边).
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
0 User Comments