The Place
A transplant from Melbourne, Machi is riding the Asian fusion train, set on a Japanese cuisine track. Opened by partners David Qui and Michael Mi, this is actually the fourth restaurant owned by the duo, but the first of its kind in China.
Machi in Melbourne began serving back in 2012, and has remained a mainstay in the Aussie dining scene ever since, with Nobu, Ichi Ni and Mr Miyagi veteran Michael running the kitchen.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The space is notably – and purposefully – small, to mimic a ‘pop-up’ feel; seating only 22, over half of the spots encircle an open sushi bar.
The décor is outfitted in onyx, accented by crimson and copper, with rounded black leather chairs and bench seating running along the back wall, below a silvery abstract art installation of a blue whale.
It’s sleek, dim and sexy – three necessary components of an ideal date spot.
The Food
The menu shares a number of dishes with its sister location down under, as the Melbourne sous chef, David Zhang, has come up to lead up the kitchen here in Shanghai. Dishes lean towards lighter, with strong umami undertones running throughout – flavorful, without being overly filling.
Another bonus for the date night front.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Beginning with an ‘available in Shanghai only’ dish, the Canapes Platter (RMB229) showcases unique offerings from across the last decade in Melbourne.
A seared scallop tataki rests on a puffed squid ink cracker, dotted with jalapeño mayo and a lip-puckering ceviche sauce.
The next mouthful ventures towards a battered and fried oyster topped with creamy uni above a shmear of smoky, grilled eggplant spread thickly on miso butter sourdough bread. The addition of an herbaceous shiso leaf adds a bright zing and a lingering hint of ginger-like bite.
A palate cleanser, the yuzu meringue is accompanied by lily root pate with crispy, tart plum chips.
Finally, the Ikura tartlet sees exploding pearls of salmon caviar atop whipped dashi sour cream that, when punctured, unleash a tidal wave of oceanic salinity, juxtaposed by the crunch of fresh watermelon.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Served on a heaving block of Himalayan pink sea salt, the Cured Kingfish (RMB78) hosts a lashing of jalapeno onion salsa, a drizzle of ponzu and the pleasantly salty pop of roe beads.
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If seafood isn’t your forte, the Vege Chips (RMB38) are made in house – flash-fried slices of sweet potato, taro and burdock root crisps are dusted with furikake and paired with a curiously placed blueberry mayo. A mainstream aioli would suit the plate more in our humble opinion.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Like a Korean play on Mexican elotes, the grilled Corn Ribs (RMB38) are scorched, twisted shafts of sweetcorn, slathered in a smoked chipotle kimchi chili mayo, then peppered with parmesan cheese.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Machi’s top selling dish – since the very beginning – are their assortment of fried seaweed shell tacos, encasing a multitude of oceanic fare: salmon, torched kingfish, grilled eel, uni or cod, to name but a few.
Resting on sushi rice, raw tuna glossed with a light mayo nestles inside a tempura battered and fried seaweed shell as the Tuna Taco (RMB38). Our only complaint – give us more of that filling for the optimal fish to rice to shell ratio.
More balanced, the Prawn Taco (RMB28) consists of jumbo tempura prawn, also anchored to the shell by sushi rice with a sweet aioli.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Our personal favorite is the Mentaiko Udon (RMB108), chewy ropes, slick in a velvety mentaiko chili sauce, elevated by a soft-boiled onsen egg that, when pierced, oozes a luscious goo across a spread of green mussels, king prawns, scallops and fish – all steamed together in a lotus leaf, unwrapped like a gift tableside.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Made from 48-hour cooked prawn soup, that’s been mixed with both miso and butter, the quenelle of prawn miso butter is best enjoyed in a copious quantity, paired with grilled handmade yogurt roti bread and Spanner Crab Tartar (RMB138) bathed in Japanese sweet tartar sauce.
BBQ Angus Scotch Filet (RMB318), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
If it’s decadent cakes, rich cream or saccharine treats you’re after, then dessert at Machi is not for you.
Instead, the sweet endings here are equally delicate, spanning tart Yuzu Cheesecake (RMB49) – sprinkled with a citrus butter crumble, shards of meringue, dehydrated orange, yuzu sour jelly and fresh fruits – to tangy Raspberry Sorbet (RMB49) – with chocolate soil, matcha mousse, chocolate ‘branches,’ raspberry jelly, fennel seeds and mint.
The Vibe
Service is focused and observant, but on a few separate occasions we had to double check what we were being served. When it’s not totally obvious, a bit of explanation goes a long way.
Regardless, this is a spot for a date. If you bring a friend here, he/she is going to think you may – in fact – be making a proposition, there’s no skirting around that.
That being said, it’s an easy place to bring one to impress; it’s sultry, yet straightforward, with high end Japanese fusion to match.
Price: RMB250-400
Who’s Going: Melbournians looking for a taste of 'home,' hip locals and expats craving all things Japan, the foodie contingency
Good For: Date nights, seafood fans, inventive taco eaters
See a listing for Machi. Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s]
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