The Place
Like walking into a Mexican abuela’s casa in Guadalajara, the brightly lit, inviting space at Chihuahua is colorful without being obnoxious, and homey without feeling contrived. Pastel yellow and teal are warmed by the daylight streaming through the Southern-facing casement windows, making the entire venue welcoming for some afternoon productivity.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The seating for 45 includes counter space for six people, something you would commonly find in Mexican food market, where produce shoppers can saddle up for a mid-day bocadillo along with a frosted tumbler of agua fresca.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Chihuahua fills a culinary gap in the Shanghai food scene for true Mexican street food at everyday prices. With many of the recipes coming from co-owner Estef Casas’ (previously of El Santo and El Luchador) grandma, the dishes are rustically wholesome. Although the menu warns that ‘these are not pretty tacos; they are real tacos’ we disagree, and find beauty in how genuinely delicious they are.
The Food
The menu is tight and cohesive, focusing on executing the classics exactly as you would find them in Mexico. Falling into the comida corrida category, or a ‘meal on the run,’ the style of food at Chihuahua is the ideal meal for busy workers who need a filling lunch served quickly. Usually found at fondas, or small taverns, comida corrida dishes are bucolic – like something your mom would cook – in a friendly, casual space.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The Nachos (RMB50 or RMB70 with choice of meat) are made from 50% masa corn and 50% flour tortilla chips that are fried to order, resulting in a light and crispy yet thick chip, ideal for scooping.
Topped with a generous dollop of refried beans made with actual Manteca lard, and an equally hefty portion of thick guacamole, the taste-the-rainbow toppings include everything from beetroot and lime-pickled onions to in-house made chipotle sauce to pickled jalapeños to pico de gallo.
Drool-worthy down to the last bite doesn’t begin to describe this version of nachos, which is far superior to others found around the city.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A dense layer of gooey mozzarella cheese hugs the meat in the Chicken Chipotle Quesadilla (RMB45), a grilled tortilla quad-triangle situation served alongside chipotle sour cream. Compared to the topping assortment on the nachos these fall a bit flat, but if pure meat and cheese is the goal, this should be your go-to.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Onto the real reason we came – tacos. All tacos are served in sets of two on legit corn masa taco shells (unless otherwise specified), sourced from the ‘masa Messiah’ himself, Juan (La Cocina de Don Juan) in Shenzhen.
If you’ve had a real masa tortilla shell in China, it comes from him – the man who single-handedly supplies the entire country with authentic corn flour, in dough form or pre-made tortillas. It is the closest thing we can get to true Mexican masa. While the tortillas aren’t made (aka dough rolled and pressed) to order, they are fresh and griddle-toasted to order, which is more than enough.
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Do yourself a favor and snag a double set of the Barbacoa (RMB55 for 2), Estef’s grandma’s recipe of slow cooked beef – stewed in its own juices, so the result is like a rich birria de res. Topped with chipotle salsa and a few pickled onions, the meat is truly the star. If you’re camera roll is – like ours – as filled with taco snaps as it is lacking in selfies, be prepared to dedicate an entire album to this one.
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The Pork Carnitas (RMB55 for 2) is a hefty portion of slow-cooked pork neck smothered in raw green salsa and pico de gallo. Make sure to ask for their extra spicy hot sauce, a homemade secret blend that adds both flavor and scorching heat, for those itching for that extra kick.
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The tender, thinly sliced pork neck that covers the Al Pastor (RMB55 for 2) is contrasted against crunchy cubed onions and creamy avocado and jalapeño crema sauce. The north-of-the-border alternative comes in the form of Pastor Gringa (RMB45, pictured above) where the masa tortilla is swapped for a toasted flour one, covered in melted mozz and sprinkled with tart pineapple bits.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The fresh shrimp in the Gobernador (RMB65 for 2) taco is lightly sautéed rather than fried, so you can really taste the protein’s natural sweetness. Smothered in refried beans, guacamole, chipotle sour cream, mozzarella and pico de gallo, this is one super-stuffed taco.
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Instead of chorizo, the Txistorra + Potatoes (RMB65 for 2) uses an alternative type of sausage, seasoned with paprika and garlic affording it a bright red color. Thinner in diameter and crumblier than chorizo, the flavor is sweet and smoky, allowing it to pair well with cubed potatoes, mozzarella, and fresh pico de gallo.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On the drinks front, the Michelada (RMB45) is a must. Served in a goblet alongside a Corona, the glass is filled with petroleo – a tequila shot mixed with soy sauce and Tabasco, lime juice and salt. Want something sweeter with a hit of acid? Opt for the Clamato Michelada (RMB45). Bonus: the classic is RMB35 during happy hour, which runs Tuesday through Thursday from 5-8pm.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Other cocktails, like frozen margaritas or tequila-based cocktails, go for RMB45-55 or RMB30-40 during happy hour. For those off the booze, soft drinks and aguas frescas, like Horchata and Jamaica are available for RMB30.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
If you have to pick just one day to check out this new spot, make it a weekend, purely because that’s the only time the Tres Leches (RMB40) is available. The dense sponge cake is soaked in a blend of condensed milk, evaporated milk, vanilla and velvety dulce de leche, before being coated in meringue and torched – a bite for which it is worth throwing your diet in the trash.
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On weekends, Chihuahua also offers a Hangover Brunch in addition to their regular menu. On Saturdays and Sundays from 11am-3pm, Chilaquiles, Molletes and Enchiladas are all available for RMB60 to soak up whatever is still running through your bloodstream.
Or continue the party with two-hour free flow for RMB179 (Corona, Tsingtao and frozen margaritas) or RMB199 with the addition of house-poured spirits. Delivery is in the works and set to start soon, so scope out Elema to satisfy that great value Mexican craving, anytime of the day.
The Vibe
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The best way to tackle Chihuahua is like a tasting menu, where the dishes happen to be served on tortillas rather than plates. The venue is conducive for gathering a group of friends, ordering every taco, a bowl of nachos and some other bits and bobs, and puff-puff-passing your way around the menu.
Really immerse yourself in the world of slow-braised, spiced meats, smoky sauces, gooey cheese, flaky tortillas, luscious guacamole, crunchy pickled toppings and aromatic herbs that span across all dishes – tying together the cohesive array of options with the authentic Mexican feeling you get as soon as you step through the door.
Price: RMB50-125 per person
Who’s going: Mexican food lovers, taco connoisseurs, the Jing'an expat contingency
Good for: Value lunches, boozy brunches, guacamole cravings
See a listing for Chihuahua. Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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