The Place
Image courtesy Fogo
Fogo’s namesake is a volcanic island in the Atlantic Ocean, but it is also an acronym for ‘fear of growing old’ and ‘fear of going out.’ We don’t know about you, but we prefer low-key evenings in the former French Concession or Jing’an, and one of our biggest phobias is going to the Bund, so we were eager to see if this new lounge by a team of former M1NT employees could change our mind.
Fogo is situated on the top floor of a heritage building that also houses Jazz at Lincoln Center, across from The Shanghai EDITION hotel and just 100 meters away from the Huangpu riverfront. Despite their upmarket address, these guys are taking a page out of The Captain’s playbook by providing mid-range prices in a neighborhood that needs more options.
The Food
The cuisine has a European backbone with inspiration from Africa, Asia and the Americas. Chef Pancho Quinones’ experience of working with the Adria brothers (of el Bulli fame) explains the inclusion of Spherical Olives (RMB15/3pc), one of the world’s most famous molecular dishes. We’ve never had Adria’s original version, but this intense rush of briny flavor bursting through in liquid form is a real treat. (By the way, one olive is presented to each guest as a complimentary amuse bouche.)
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The next thing brought out is an Edible Cocktail (RMB28), and like the olive, the first serving is also on the house. The orange soup with carrot foam and Campari jelly are meant to be eaten together, and while it’s definitely an acquired taste, we found the combination refreshing.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
A variety of larger nibbles, such as the Truffle Hummus (RMB48), are meant for sharing. The garbanzo bean mixture flavored with fragrant mountain black truffles is a good snack to pair with drinks.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
From Mexico comes a demi-roasted Red Mullet Aquachile (RMB68) that had us close to drinking it from the bowl. This dish is a spicier sibling to ceviche with lots of lime and green chilies.
Image courtesy Fogo
Sea Urchin Croquettes (RMB98) put a Thai green curry in a neat finger food package. Inside a golden and crisp exterior, you’ll find creamy potato with curry and coconut notes. We almost never say this about sea urchin, but in this case, we found it completely unnecessary.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Falling into the social media trap, we ordered their trending Pigs on a Tree (RMB65). Basically, it’s Iberico ham wrapped around crispy air baguettes and served on tree branches. Ever had ham and crackers? That’s exactly what it tastes like.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
More impressive is a salad of Tomatoes with Seared Tuna and Cumin Air (RMB50). We don’t often get worked up about salads, but the fresh balance of flavors here allowed us to look past the use of foam.
Image by Fogo
If you’re still hungry, try out some of their bigger meat and seafood options. The charcoal grilled Spanish Carabinero Prawns with Potato Mousse, Raisins and Pine Nuts (RMB498) or Australian Black Angus M3 Ribeye (RMB498) are both good choices.
For dessert, we went with a strange yet delightful Garden Ravioli (RMB48) made by filling paper-thin courgette slices with fresh tomato and Tahitian vanilla. Topped with fresh basil jelly, mint granite and pineapple soup, the dish brought a pleasingly light finish to the meal.
Food Verdict: 2/3
The Vibe
The dim lighting and lounge-style seating impart a laidback atmosphere similar to The Nest, while marble accents and artsy installations bring a glamorous sheen. The medium tempo music provides good energy without drowning out conversation.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
With cocktails starting at RMB78 and creative food choices, Fogo is a solid addition to the neighborhood. While we’re not entirely over our ‘fear of going to the Bund,’ we will happily drop by for drinks and small bites anytime we find ourselves nearby.
Vibe Verdict: 2/2
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB350-500 per person
Who’s going: a mixed crowd of Shanghai nightlife veterans
Good for: molecular olives, sharing plates, cocktails
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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