Shanghai Restaurant Review: Luneurs

By Cristina Ng, July 30, 2018

The Place

When two former employees of Franck Pécol are involved in a new bakery and ice cream concept, comparisons to Farine are unavoidable. In regards to this connection, owner Qian Yan says, “Luneurs didn’t invent the croissant, but neither did they.” While 80 percent of the recipes adhere to a classic French style, this new space in Panyu Lu’s Xing Fu Li complex gives them creative freedom. For example, you might notice that the loaves are rounder and the pastries more photogenic than the traditional ones.

In addition to former Farine manager Son Quach, Anne-Catherine Guilloux (WIYF) is on board with the ice cream recipes that launched a thousand lines. In the back, Meilleur Ouvrier de France designated baker Didier Chouet is in charge.

The Food

The focal point is a single line of viennoiseries, patisseries and sandwiches inspired by well-known pastry chef Cédric Grolet’s Parisian shop. That’s where the similarity to Grolet ends, as the simple, clean aesthetic of their baked goods is the polar opposite of his stunning fruit-shaped creations.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Start with their croissant (RMB14) to experience a hurricane of infinite paper-thin layers with a flaky bronzed crust that melts away upon impact. The only way to improve on this is to stuff it with ham and gooey brie cheese (RMB35) and serve it warm. A frangipane-laden almond croissant (RMB20) with a crunchy coating and toasted slices of nuts on top is also well worth the calories.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Of the tarts, we fell hardest for the chocolate caramel tart (RMB40). The buttery crust is filled with a gooey pool of salted caramel and intensely rich chocolate ganache and given a crumbly topping. The Tart Exotic (RMB45) brings to mind a classic lemon dessert, but the acidity comes from a mango-passion fruit curd studded with pineapple and lime zest. While both tarts are beautiful, hard shells make a quick mess of them.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

One item that looks better than it tastes is the resoundingly average cruffin (RMB40), but this hybrid of a croissant and a muffin is elevated by the discovery of a yummy apricot jam and creamy chocolate pudding within.

Food Verdict: 2.5/3

The Vibe

The heart of Luneurs is the open, traditional French bakery allowing the customers to peak in on the process. Minimal design elements are painstakingly executed, such as the tiny grey and white tiles that run in perfect lines from the floor up to the display case.

Image by Cristina Ng/That's

Neutral tones run the risk of feeling cold, but burnished bronze loaves of bread displayed artfully add warmth. Now if they just had more comfortable seating, we’d settle in for a while.