The Place
A shopping centre in Xintiandi is one of the last places you’d expect to find authentic Yunnan food. And while mall food in general has an unsavory reputation for being generally shitty, new Yunnan restaurant In & Out (no relation to the American fast food chain) proves an exception to the adage.
The Food
In & Out does their level best to channel authentic Yunnan vibes with not one but two tome-like menus, both crammed with beautifully shot photography and illustrations. One is permanent, and the other seasonal, with focus on a particular region of Yunnan. On our visit, Dali (大理, Northwestern Yunnan) was getting the shout.
Beef rolls with mint (薄荷牛肉卷, RMB58) is on just about every table in the place. It’s served chilled but doused in fiery dried chilies under a bed of fresh cucumber slivers.
Also chili-licious is the shiping tofu (石屏香煎包浆豆腐, RMB46), a perfect introduction to stronger-flavored tofus of China – intense but definitely not stinky.
The Jingpo-style shredded black chicken salad is another pungently zesty hit, light and oil-free with lemongrass, chopped cilantro and yet more chilies. Why is the chicken black? It's a specialty breed native to China known as a Silkie. They have fluffy pure white plumage with jet black bones and skin, considered something of a delicacy.
Even veggies at In & Out are spicy enough to make you go reaching for the shui. The startlingly green loofah sprout salad (RMB38) with mujiangzi – a type of dogwood plant found in Yunnan – is lightly blanched and still thrillingly crisp. It’s dishes like these that remind how fresh and satisfying Chinese vegetarian food can be: a thousand miles away (or 2,356km to be exact) from the cloying stickiness of Shanghainese cuisine.
In & Out pushes diners away from more familiar Yunnanese dishes, but luckily they’ve acquiesced roasted goat cheese slices on the menu for RMB38. Sadly, theirs aren’t as good as Southern Barbarian’s.
Last but not least came In & Out’s rendition of the veritable Yunnanese classic: Mengzi ‘Crossing the Bridge Chicken Noodle Soup’ (蒙自过桥米线, RMB68). Theirs is enormous, containing quail eggs, fresh greens, Yunnan ham, pickles, and is prepped at the table. As per tradition, into the soup bowl also go paper-thin raw chicken slices.
Noting our skepticism, the fuwuyuan assures the soup base is “hen tang” (很烫, ‘very hot’). Hot enough to kill off any food poisoning bacteria? We didn’t get sick so apparently so, but err on the side of caution if you suspect your constitution isn’t up to it.
Food verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
The wait service is efficient if not friendly or smiley, but then again maybe we’d be the same if we had to work wearing a floor-length faux fur and jingle bell-trimmed ‘ethnic’ Yunnan costumes. Luckily the themes end there, and the restaurant interiors are minimal, bright and with verdant views over the park.
Vibe verdict: 0.5/1
Value for Money
A full meal at In & Out is likely to set you back RMB120-140 per person. It’s not the cheapest Chinese restaurant in the city thanks to an emphasis on fresh ingredients, but in our books that’s no bad thing.
Value for money: 1/1
TOTAL VERDICT: 4/5
Price: RMB120-140 per person
Who’s going: young locals mainly
Good for: Yunnan food, lunch, dinner, dates, casual dining
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