Restaurant Review: Vietnamese at Pho Zen

The place

Ok we give up. Seems it’s impossible for pho restaurants in Shanghai to make Vietnam’s signature dish like they do in Vietnam; the broth doesn’t have that complex, star anise-laden flavor and there’s never enough fresh herbs. With that said, however, new Pho Zen on Jiashan Lu is by and large the best we’ve tried in the city.

The food

The broth is bolder flavored than other pho places we’ve tried, with a heavy oniony flavor thanks to a generous topping of deep-fried garlic and a separate serving of raw onions, mint, Thai basil, chili, lime and bean sprouts added at your discretion.

For RMB40, the rare beef pho (pictured above and below) is very good – rich, tasty and filling whilst still being profoundly light. The raw slices of beef (which cook in the hot broth) were a delicious, luxurious-feeling touch; and a far cry from the sad, tasteless, over-cooked beef slices we’ve had at other pho places.

Initially we thought the accompanying chopped fresh chilies weren’t spicy enough (we were VERY wrong on that one, by the way), and following a request for chili sauce, the manager came back with a bottle of Sriracha. Since this Sriracha (the bottled, Huy Fong Foods kind) is technically Vietnamese, and Westerners love Sriracha – everyone wins.

Skip the shrimp summer rolls (RMB32), they’re always a bit on the bland side anyway, and go for the minced pork lettuce wraps (above, RMB28) instead. Gingery, garlicky and topped with shredded herbs, these were yummy, but could have done with a squeeze of lime or chili dipping sauce (luckily the Sriracha stepped in as substitute).

 Also great were the sweet potato fries (above, RMB28), which we dipped in, you guessed it, Sriracha. 

Food verdict: 2/3

 The vibe

Strategically positioned 20 meters off Yongkang Lu, Pho Zen has the vibe of a Southeast Asian backpacker café, helped along by the occasional trance anthem on the sound system. The vibe is laid back and unfussy, even peaceful if you sit at one of the tables outside. However, seating is relatively sparse, and there aren’t proper bathrooms either.

Vibe verdict: 0.5/1

Value for money

Everything we tried was fresh, generously portioned, and served quickly. One can easily eat here for under RMB60, since the pho is filling enough for a meal. Come here before (or after) drinks on Yongkang Lu or for the RMB68 lunch set.

Value for money: 1/1

TOTAL VERDICT: 3.5/5

Price: RMB40+

Who’s going: expat overflow from Yongkang Lu

Good for: cheap eats, pho, Vietnamese food

> See a listing for Pho Zen.

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