Old Shanghai teahouses. Nowadays, the phrase is synonymous with scams that swindle tourists into three very expensive cups of tea, but that’s a narrow take on one of China’s most fascinating social traditions. For a journey into real teahouse culture as it flourished back in 1920s Shanghai, venture no further than Foshan – to Spring Bar & Seafood.
Though not a teahouse itself, the restaurant pulses with a vintage vibe born from the tattered collectors’ items tucked into every corner. An old curricle waits near the entrance, ready to escort the next cheongsam-clad beauty through a memory of the Bund after nightfall.
Once inside, an array of multi-level rooms and high ceilings give one the sensation of being outdoors – an effect purposely created by the restaurant’s founders, who also assumed the daunting task of interior decorating. Seating in the main room carries the theme of a timeworn train station, while a separate dining area reflects European influence with floral wallpaper and chandeliers. The back of the restaurant is reserved for VIP seating, private meetings and a roomy stage equipped with speakers for nightly entertainment.
In the spirit of old teahouses, live performances often spill off stage, with entertainers wandering in and amongst the crowd. Guests can expect TV-caliber musicians and short experimental skits in the near future.
Cuisine boasts rare Cantonese favorites with a few Western steaks, salads and soups thrown in. The fried egg with preserved pickles in sweet and sour sauce (RMB58) is a classic but comes doused in vinegar. Instead, try one of the many savory pot roasts, such as the traditional salted abalone with chicken (RMB88).
The best dish of our night was, surprisingly, the rice, which becomes an addictive centerpiece when tossed with sesame oil and pungent spices (RMB38).
Despite its niche menu, Spring pleases a broad palate when it comes to alcohol. Choosing to specialize in the three best areas – wines, whiskeys and cocktails – the bar offers reasonably priced labels of European reds and whites, Scottish and Japanese whiskeys like the Macallan Highland Malt (RMB55) and Yamazaki 1923 (RMB55), and some of the best cocktails in Foshan.
Although Spring’s original branch is more conveniently located on Hunter Lane in Guangzhou, Foshan’s version has outdone itself with attention to detail – from the shape of ceramic dishes to the choice of wooden barstools, each object speaks to past trends of China’s most stylish city. Reserve a table at least two days in advance to avoid queues, or get there early and steal a ride in the retro carriage. Either way, it’s one more reason to fall in love with the 1920s.
Price: Approx. RMB150
Who’s going: Nostalgic diners, white-collar Cantonese
Good for: Wistful rendezvous, reliable whiskey
// Listing.
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