The trappings of Hoper GT are so familiar, we could practically describe them in our sleep: bartenders in vintage tailored vests, dim lighting illuminating bronze accessories, gentle jazz in the background. Together, these elements constitute a uniform of sorts for cocktail bars in Beijing. It’s like bar owners in the city are afraid to admit they’re in Beijing, 2018, and not New York City, 1925.
Despite obediently adhering to the formula, Hoper is neither tired nor cloying. The reason is simple: the drinks. Crafted by the team behind Hoper’s first, smaller location in Gulou (one of the few remaining hutong bars), Hoper’s cocktails are sophisticated without being overly complicated.
The best of the bunch is the Roma (RMB88) – featuring whiskey, cherry liqueur and hazelnut syrup. Presentation is as snazzy as our bartenders’ vests, the drink arriving on a wooden platter and served alongside a high-quality dark chocolate. Our tequila-based Rio (RMB88) is also a fantastic bet, the white cacao and pineapple juice working surprisingly well with the rock salt on our glass rim.
But craft cocktails aren’t the only things on offer – this Xingfucun location also has a stacked menu of classic cocktails (RMB60 and up). There’s also a full wine list, whose bottles span the globe in terms of origin. It all goes down in a setting that’s traditional, with a couple of key updates (the walls are a pleasing shade of teal, and lounge-ready couches sit on an elevated platform in the back). Best of all, the actual bar is tremendously long – perfect for those looking to pull up a stool and chat with the friendly bartenders about how their drinks are made.
It’s enough to make us remember, hey, jazz is good! Suits are fine! And so, our verdict is this: in a city of so many vintage-inspired craft cocktail bars, this is the one to choose.
[Cover image via Hoper GT]
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