Two years ago, Beijing fine-dining legend TRB tried going casual. They failed.
Perhaps we should define ‘fail.’ When TRB Bites opened, we loved it – but consumers didn’t quite get it. Diners in Beijing either want cheap, or they want fancy – and TRB Bites was casual, but not quite casual enough. In sum, it failed because the service was too good, the food too exquisite, the restaurant too, well, nice. (Not the worst way to fail.)
But they didn’t give up (though they did turn Bites’ Forbidden City location into a fancy food spot of the finest caliber). Instead, they doubled down on casual, and the result is Hulu. No, we don’t mean the at-home Netflix-adjacent streaming service – not that casual. We mean their new restaurant in Taikoo Li. Is is casual AF.
But perhaps we should define ‘casual.’ The definition is relative. In Beijing, ‘casual’ begins with Element Fresh and ends with soggy 7-Eleven sandwiches, eaten while squatting on the side of the road. Hulu is closer to the Element Fresh end of things, though its food is better and – amazingly – cheaper.
It will likely come as a shock to longtime TRB fans that items on Hulu’s menu start at RMB20. For the price of a latte at Starbucks, you can have Spanish croquettes with Iberico pork. For the price of McDonald’s value meal, you can get foie gras on toast. And for the price of a cocktail in a Sanlitun bar, you can get both of these things – and have them served to you by TRB’s renowned hospitality.
We particularly enjoy the roast suckling pig (RMB398/half pig), its crackly skin dipped in fine gravy. Our flank steak (RMB148/200g) is also a treat, topped with a minimal line of pesto. For lunch, however, more low-key options are available, including Belgian-style cones of French fries (RMB48). Our salmon avocado ‘rose’ (RMB68), featuring cubed salmon and avocado in the shape of a flower, feels like an upscale take on the poke bowl trend, and the Spanish-style garlic prawns (RMB38) are the perfect side any time of day.
What’s the catch? you say. Frankly, there doesn’t really appear to be one – other than the fact that the restaurant has been consistently packed every time we’ve walked by (expect to wait). We could imagine a catch, though, for anyone making plans at Hulu expecting the TRB Forbidden City treatment – menus are big (almost too big) and laminated, and the atmosphere is louder and more chaotic. This is not a white-tablecloth place.
What is it, then? Perhaps a better comparison would be the aforementioned Element Fresh. Hulu is the same fast-casual, but with better service; it’s cheap, but with better food. It is your neighborhood Element Fresh, but better.
And with more wine. Come warmer weather, Hulu plans on opening a lounge on their massive rooftop. But until then, you can enjoy both bargain and high-end vintages indoors. Or your morning coffee. Or your afternoon tea. Or your, well, anything really – just not your white tablecloths.
See a listing for Hulu and read more Beijing Restaurant Reviews
0 User Comments