The idea of a ‘private kitchen’ does not strike us as particularly novel. Most kitchens – unless you happen to live in shared accommodation [hello college students!] – are by definition private. So, it is a relief when Iris Lam, manger of newly opened private kitchen, Wine and Meat, tells us that Wine and Meat is definitely not a private kitchen.
“That’s of course the definition some people will choose to refer to us by, but we don’t like to think of ourselves in that way. We’re a small restaurant for friends and friends-of-friends.”
Owned and operated by a group of like-minded long-time friends and business associates, the not-a-private-kitchen private kitchen is something of an unusual concept within Beijing’s restaurant scene currently. “We don’t take bookings off of the street, you have to get to know us first,” explains Iris. And while that might sound like something of an exclusive club, in actuality Wine and Meat is nothing if not welcoming.
Walk in and at once feel you like you’re entering a friend’s house (albeit a rich friend, with a cool pad and exceptionally good taste in wine). The atmosphere is warm and inviting. The decor is stylish in a thoroughly unpretentious way (Destiny’s Child on the speakers? We’ll take it), and the hosts genuinely gregarious and fun to be around.
The compact space is split into two with a dividing curtain separating the intimate dining area (seats approximately 12) and the well-stocked front bar (seats approximately six). Wine and Meat is perfect for group bookings, though groups can be as small as two.
The chef prepares a new menu each day, based on fresh ingredients sourced locally where possible, while each course is served with a different, expertly-selected wine (believe us when we say these guys really know their wine).
We begin our meal with a truly standout bacon-flavored salty pumpkin soup, followed by a delicious tender steak, marinated cod-fish and delicate Cantonese-style beef for the mains, and rich, flavorsome homemade macarons and fresh strawberry pannacotta for dessert. All of which is served with a dazzling assortment of vintage red, white and sparkling French wines.
“We want to create something special and memorable,” Iris tells us. “We’re not doing this for profit. It’s more of a hobby. We’re doing it because we love entertaining, hosting friends and having great nights.”
The philosophy is reflected in the prices (RMB200 for five courses, wine is extra), which appears, to us at least, as artificially low (especially considering the high-quality of the food on offer). “We cover our costs and nothing more,” Iris explains. “If you invited your friends over to your house for dinner, you wouldn’t try to make a profit, so why should we?” Indeed.
1-035, Building 5, 8 Xindong Lu, Sanlitun; [010.8424.4699]
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Images by Holly Li
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