New on the dining scene and having already caught quite a bit of flak from other English-language media, Bokka is a mid-range Italian fusion concept headed by a Chinese chef (Zhao Yu) who previously interned at one of the best restaurants in the world – Copenhagen’s Noma. Perhaps expectations were set unrealistically high, considering Zhao’s credentials? Reviewers have criticized Bokka’s attempt at fine dining as all but missing the mark. Well, to each his own. We found Bokka to be an accessible and well-judged dining experience.
Low-key furnishings uncommon to a ‘fine dining’ spot, a lively nighttime bar, industrial design and an attentive wait staff complement the modern and airy two-story restaurant. Helming the kitchen out back, Chef Zhao worked with Simon Wright for four years - owner of Auckland’s prestigious French Café, voted the world’s fourth-best restaurant in the TripAdvisor 2014 Travelers' Choice Restaurant Awards. Zhao then transitioned to Noma, the world’s No. 1-ranked restaurant, famous for its locally-sourced ingredients and unconventional flavors. Finding his home country a more promising market, Zhao returned to China last year and decided to try and make fine dining more accessible to locals.
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Made from select cuts of M7 Australian Wagyu beef, the beef carpaccio (RMB98) sees paper-thin meat slices accompanied by artichoke, parmesan and pickled Japanese shiitakes. Extremely soft and tender, the beef was infused with a mild scent of cheese and toasted chips – it melts on the tongue.
Chicken liver parfait (RMB78, above) is an interesting combination that features organic chicken liver with fresh honey. For that, we owe thanks to a friend of Zhao’s who produces honeycombs on his farm in New Zealand.
For mains, braised beef ribs (RMB188, above) were another winner: beef ribs marinated with red wine and slow-cooked sous vide for more than 12 hours. The result is exquisitely tender, served alongside organic baby carrots, mashed potatoes and fresh herbs – a portion sizable enough for two.
Other dishes hint that Zhao is cooking for the local market, like his lobster truffle risotto (RMB148). Instead of the requisite Italian Arborio short-grain rice, Chef Zhao uses a creamy barley better suited to Chinese taste buds. Clear and chewy with a distinct al dente bite, the flavors are complemented by chunks of luscious lobster meat (this dish may become a bit salty as you gorge on).
Desserts proved to be fun, opulently-named affairs such as ‘Double Pleasure’ (RMB68), a mix of rich chocolate and vanilla foam, chocolate caramel and crunchy cocoa chips. Less rich was the ‘Paradise Heaven’ (RMB58), a sweet-and-sour banana and passion fruit soufflé that took about 15 minutes to bake.
So should you go to Bokka? For the price and quality, Yes. It’s an affordable, honest attempt at injecting some passion into the local dining scene. Is it on a par with Noma? Probably not. It seems more like bistro food than ‘haute cuisine,’ but that doesn’t mean it’s not a damn good option for a casual dinner in Jing’an.
Price: RMB200+ per person
Who’s going: locals and expats
Good for: Dates, casual dinner, small parties.
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