The Place
HIYA, on the 27th floor of The Shanghai EDITION, has been completely overhauled into Yone, a Japanese fusion restaurant focused on a modern interpretation of rice-based fare.
The contemporary menu is designed by renowned Japanese chef Fumio Yonezawa, who cut his teeth working as Jean Georges’ sous chef in New York, before opening Jean Georges Tokyo as chef de cuisine.
He now owns No Code in Tokyo, and builds out the food menu for most SG Group venues.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
On the drinks front, famed SG Group owner Shingo Gokan (Speak Low, Sober Company, The Odd Couple) is shaking things up, consulting on a lineup of Japanese ingredient-inspired sippers featuring SG shochu and sake.
The interior decoration still flaunts the same Neri&Hu curated Japanese gastropub vibe, the sophisticated interior giving off an intimate yet airy atmosphere suited to its price point and stylish, well-heeled crowd.
The Food
Yone’s ethos centers around the humble grain of rice – at once representing both sustenance and cultural heritage, coupled with the art of hospitality.
Showcasing the evolution of this important ingredient, rice plays a major role throughout the roster – from food to drinks to garnishes – amplified by innovative techniques that highlight its diverse range of uses.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
We began with the utmost freshness of the Seaweed Salad (RMB148), augmented by red snapper ceviche, king crab, and sea urchin.
A bright lashing of yuzu wasabi vinaigrette culminates in an acidic bite.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A combination of the popular Western-style beef tartare and Japanese potato salad, the Australia M5 Wagyu Tartar (RMB188) is nestled between a base of white miso laden potato gratin and a piped tuft of smarmy egg yolk and cheese, brûléed and dusted with togarashi spice.
Potato chips act as the ideal scooping vessel, with the benefit of added crunch.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
If you’re seeking rice at this point in the meal, opt for the Shari Rice Gimlet (RMB98), a shaken blend of Shochu Kome, Miho Imada sake, rice vinegar and lime – a tart libation to cut through the tartare’s unctuous layers.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Marinated in miso for 12 hours, the Australia M5 Wagyu Tataki (RMB188) is seared over charcoal before being sliced and dotted with a citrusy truffle ponzu vinaigrette.
Fresh jalapeños, red onions, and a final dribble of sesame oil round out these juicy licks of beef.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A dish that requires no further introduction, the Tuna, Sea Urchin, Caviar (RMB288) is just that, enhanced by pickled radish and minced ginger.
A trifecta seafood stack is the best way to tackle it – heaped in a mound atop a tempura nori chip – and taken down in one glorious gulp.
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A match made in heaven, the Furikake Highball (RMB88) is stirred with sushi rice-infused Shochu Mugi, tequila, soda water, and a furikake rim – a Japanese spice powder made with toasted sesame seeds, nori, salt and sugar.
It elevates the marinated tuna to another level with both seaweed and rice undertones for a quaffable 'sushi roll' of sorts.
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A turducken of Japanese fare, the Foie Gras & Unagi Spring Roll (RMB148) is pan-fried goose liver rolled into a supple slab of teriyaki eel, surrounded by pickled perilla leaves and encased in a fried spring roll wrapper.
Plated astride a pond of sticky Japanese sansho pepper unagi sauce, the eyebrow-raising result packs a powerful punch.
Black Iberian Pork Steamed Siomai (RMB88). Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A collision of tradition and popularity, the Australian M8 Wagyu Sirloin Steak (RMB218) sees ruffles of sukiyaki-style marinated beef stacked in a heaping mound, finished with the Shanghai-requisite truffle shavings, and a soft-poached egg binder.
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Slathered in white miso and marinated for 12 hours, the Atlantic Cod Fish (RMB268) is charcoal grilled, the sweet miso caramelizing into a crackly crust.
Flaking off in buttery hunks, the fishy flesh is best enjoyed with a scoopful of SG Shochu-infused clam risotto, adorned with SG Shochu milk foam.
Rice Crumb-Coated Fried Boston Lobster (RMB268) – Lobster bisque, lobster tartare sauce. Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
At this point in the meal, we suggest a seventh inning stretch before diving head first into the Black Iberian Pork Belly Cutlet (RMB188), a tonkatsu pork chop 'roll' that boasts even heavier marbling than your average block o’ belly.
Coated in egg yolk and panko before being flash-fried, the rendered fat melts into the heat of your tongue, juxtaposed against the crispy outer shell.
Both a customary tonkatsu sauce and a mustard soy mayo act as a duo of dipping decisions.
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High-grade Japanese matcha powder is blended into lush daubs of Kyoto-matcha speckled mascarpone – the creamy whip that holds together sponge soaked in more Uji matcha – as the Italy-meets-Japan hybrid sweet treat, Matcha Tiramisu (RMB88).
The usually saccharine mouthful is tamed by an earthy dusting of bitter matcha powder.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The optimal dessert pairing, the Bubble Trouble (RMB98) is a boozy take on bubble milk tea, featuring SG Shochu Mugi (a barley shochu) amped by cognac and Kokuto de Lequio – an awamori brown sugar liqueur.
A hint of hojicha, milk, and gummy tapioca pearls lend the necessary bubble tea components to this adult-only rendition.
Swirl Highball (RMB88) – Shochu Kome, bergamot, tequila, sake, soda water. Image by Sophie Steiner/That’s
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A combination of dark and white chocolate is laced with aromatic roasted Japanese green tea as the Hojicha Chocolate Terrine (RMB98), sheathed by fruity mango jelly and juicy mango cubes.
Flanked by cookie crumble-sprinkled coconut ice, this delicately sweet finish is concurrently refreshing and rich.
The Vibe
Slick, sophisticated and glamorous, the eatery that was originally modeled after Sosharu, Jason Atherton's now shuttered London restaurant, continues to remain a nighttime destination for Shanghai's elite.
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It might be confusing to read the words ‘izakaya,’ ‘gastropub,’ and ‘Japanese’ and then walk into Yone.
Instead of over-worked salarymen knocking back a few drinks after a long day at the office, you will find a well-to-do mix of business travelers and posh Shanghai socialites enjoying a grand ol’ time over lux cocktails and expertly presented dishes, while documenting the entire experience with countless selfies and foodporn shots for their Insta stories.
Price: RMB300-500
Who’s Going: Posh Shanghai socialites, well-to-do business travelers, Shingo Gokan acolytes
Good For: Creative Japanese cuisine, SG Group sippers, sprawling Bund views
Yone, 27/F, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu 南京东路199号, 近江西中路
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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