The Place
Before there was the Three Michelin-starred Taian Table, there was Stiller – an everyday, approachable venue, led by lauded German Chef Stefan Stiller.
The original Stiller in Shanghai had a solid run from 2008-13. It was then revived in 2021 in Guangzhou. And now, just last month saw a reincarnation of the original in Shanghai, this time in the heart of Xintiandi.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image courtesy of Stiller
Situated in the old Meanwhile digs, across from Shake Shack and The Refinery, the venue’s coloring immediately catches the eye: bright orange awnings coupled with wood-slatted seating; bleached wood tables topped with mismatched, muted earth tone pottery plates; heather gray accents and pops of greenery.
German-brand partners are sprinkled throughout – think Zwilling steak knives and Zwiesel glassware – plus a streamlined kitchen setup that pumps out modern European fare with a German touch, showcasing locally-sourced ingredients in an unpretentious, even somewhat rustic presentation.
Image courtesy of Stiller
Bonus: the patio seating for 50 nearly doubles the space.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Before we dive in, let’s get something out of the way real quick: Stiller is not Taian Table.
While both are backed by Stefan Stiller, they are widely varying concepts – different entities and different teams.
It’s a Porsche versus Volkswagen situation. Taian Table may be a once-a-year venue for celebrating the most special of occasions, while Stiller is a once-a-week venue, be it for a business lunch, friendly brunch or casual date night.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Stiller provides a space to play with more easy-going options. Keep that in mind during your visit, and you will still easily find value in what is being placed in front of you, especially given the location and the name above the door.
Image courtesy of Stiller
The Food
“I am German, so why should I cook Italian or French food? I should cook what I know while breaking the stereotype of what German food actually means,” says Stefan, leisurely sipping a glass of Spätburgunder, a cool-climate German Pinot Noir.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
So, it’s no surprise that Stiller is a far cry from your typical German restaurant – one that is customarily filled with lederhosen-clad waiters carrying heaving trays brimming with sausages and thick slabs of pork knuckle, paired with overflowing frothed mugs of beer.
Instead, it’s all about a refreshingly contemporary take on traditional dishes at the forefront, with creative spins on tried-and-true favorites.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Think roughly chopped Australian Hackepeter Beef Tartar (RMB185), tossed simply with egg yolk and capers so the high-quality meat shines center stage.
Slivers of marinated beef tongue encircle the tartar, crowned with rye crisps. An acidic side of house made pickles – beetroot, carrot, mushroom and radish – juxtapose the dish’s fattiness, a must on the table for future equally rich bites to come.
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Opt for the Bread Basket (RMB55), an ample portion of Laugen buns (plush pretzel rolls), rye bread and two compound butters – an herbaceous basil butter and a German Maggi sauce-infused brown butter.
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Spring is the season for white asparagus, a coveted temporal ingredient in Germany prized for its demure, agreeably sweet flavor.
From now through May, guests can choose from three dishes featuring this milder alternative to the more conventional green asparagus.
The Spargel-Salat (RMB165), or white asparagus salad, sees a bed of cabbage, radicchio and butter lettuce tossed with cherry tomatoes, fresh and freeze-dried raspberries and shaved 5J Ham crisps, tossed in a tart raspberry purée dressing.
It's a pleasantly lighter plate to break up those dramatic in heft that come both before and after.
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The opposite of esoteric, the Käsespätzle (RMB85) is the German answer to mac’n’cheese – a dish that can be understood by just about anyone.
Pudgy, rope-like egg noodles are hand-rolled – somewhat unevenly for that addictingly variable chew – and swaddled in a trio of sharp Gruyere, bold Comte and mild Emmental, plus a deeply caramelized sweet onion jam and parmesan foam.
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One of Stefan’s favorite dishes on the menu, the Weinberg-Schnecken & Ochsen-Mark (RMB135) sees Burgundy snails cooked in luscious bone marrow and beef jus, anchored to the plate by a velvety dollop of potato leek purée.
Parmesan foam rounds out the morsel with crouton cubes for added textural crunch.
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A restaurant signature (for good reason) the unmistakably German Blutwurst Maultaschen (RMB155) sees bulging ravioli stuffed to the brim with fat-flecked, mineral-forward homemade blood pudding, a silky texture that spreads across the tongue like shmearing pâté on toast.
Contrasting subtly acerbic sauerkraut is mellowed by the addition of cream, while Comte foam lends nutty, fruit-like undertones.
Gegrillte Rinder-Rippe (RMB285) (Beef Shortrib), Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Dessert is all about the light and fresh selections for spring, namely the Zitronen Kuchen (RMB85) – a zippy lemon tart flanked by a quenelle of raspberry sorbet...
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
... and a deconstructed Bienenstich (RMB85) of sorts, with almond-honey brittle sheathing a scoop of marzipan crumble-coated almond gelato dribbled with crème anglaise.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The wine program is German leaning (60% of the menu is German wines) – all of which hail from wineries that Stefan knows personally; there are no mass market producers here.
Showcasing the diversity that exists in the world of German Rieslings (far beyond the cloyingly sweet varieties of a bygone era) the wine offerings are built around storytelling, so you can learn as you drink at reasonable prices, especially by Xintiandi standards – wines by the glass range from RMB70-120, with many bottles falling in the RMB400-600 range.
The full menu is available all day, but expect lunch specials to launch soon – two to three weekly rotating selections for the kitchen to try out new seasonal menu ideas.
Image courtesy of Stiller
The Vibe
Image courtesy of Stiller
Stiller boasts a clear elevated German identity – in the food, the wine, and the efficient service – while still maintaining a comfy bistro feel.
The hyped Chef Stefan Stiller name, coupled with pocket-friendly prices in a heavy foot traffic area, plus a stellar patio opening just in time for the warm weather ahead guarantee Stiller’s success with both avid fans and the uninitiated.
Price: RMB250-500
Who’s Going: Stefan Stiller fans; ze Germans; the Xintiandi working contingency; well to do Chinese and expats
Good For: Business lunches; friendly brunches; casual date nights
Stiller, Building. 22, 181 Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Lu, 太仓路181弄22号, 近黄陂路.
Read more Shanghai Restaurant Reviews.
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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