The Place
There’s something to be said for sticking to what you know, and the BIBIMI Group of Bites & Brews, Barbarian and Hot Chick fame have their formula down to a science. With well-worn rustic charm, customizable drinks and bang-for-value food that defines their other venues, they’ve headed south of the Rio Grande for inspiration. Solana's rough stonework, multicolored textiles on the walls and a bar fashioned from logs make you feel like you’ve just stumbled in from the desert seeking refreshment.
The Food
That refreshment takes the form of tacos, tamals, raw bar starters, queso fundido and customized margaritas. Like their other restaurants, nothing is overly complex, but there’s plenty to like on this menu.
If we had to point to one instance that the kitchen stretched too far, it would be with the starters. Something about the Ahi Tuna Ceviche (RMB48) with passionfruit mojo, greens, candied jalapenos, watermelon and cotija cheese just doesn’t gel, and we have to say that we prefer our ceviche without cheese.
By the time we got our first two Margaritas (RMB60) and order of chorizo and roasted pepper Queso Fundido (RMB78), all was forgiven. The best thing about the margaritas is that you have your choice of tequila or mezcal. Combine your spirit of choice with up to 20 flavors for endless combinations. The option to skew cocktails sweet or sour (or keeping things balanced) makes it hard to fail. The only danger with one-of-a-kind ordering is (and the tequila helps with this) the likelihood of forgetting favorite combinations.
Images by Cristina Ng/That's
Coconut Pork Rib Tacos (RMB48/two) with mango, jicama salsa, basil and toasted coconut are a masterful mix of Caribbean flavors. Heading to Argentina, the well-marinated Steak Tacos (RMB58) with chimichurri, manchego and microgreens are also excellent. We only wish they had sliced the flank steak thinner and against the grain, as it’s a bit of a choking hazard.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The hero of the meal award has to go to the Pork Belly Tamal (RMB58) with caramelized onion-chipotle glaze, green chile sofrito, pickled red onion, pig ear and rice in a banana leaf. While we are more accustomed to the corn masa tamales of Mexico, we were converted by this sticky rice version called el pastel de arroz in Colombia. The mix of textures and flavors is addictive (hello crispy pig ear) and even better reheated the next day, which is lucky because it’s huge.
Growing up, we had a novelty ice cream bar called Choco Taco, consisting of a folded disk of waffle cone with vanilla ice cream, chocolate and nuts inside. Well, Solana has created desserts that blow childhood memories out of the water with their sweet tacos. The Chocolate Aztec (RMB58) takes chocolate ice cream to the next level with bitter chocolate mole, hazelnuts and cocoa puffs (yes, cocoa freaking puffs).
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Presented in a lavender shell with edible glitter, the Churro variety features vanilla ice cream, fried bread and cinnamon apple pico de gallo. The former has us wishing it was healthy to eat ice cream for dinner.
Food Verdict: 2/3
The Vibe
Creative cocktails and solid eats in an affordable neighborhood eatery make Solana an ideal addition to this laowai-heavy stretch of Jing’an. Although busy, the simplicity of the menu makes it easy for plates of food to fly from the kitchen to our tables. The front windows make it a good stop for solo lunches, while the general coziness of the joint ensures it a spot on our list of ideal winter hideaways.
Vibe Verdict: 1/2
Total Verdict: 3/5
Price: RMB100-250 per person
Who’s going: lots of expats, some locals
Good for: customized drinks and tasty bites
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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