The Place
By now, the chances are that you’ve already heard of, and maybe even been to Highline, a luxe all-day eatery opened by Cody Allen (Le Baron), Michael Sun and John Liu (Scarpetta, Coquille). We held off to give their two new chefs (who stepped in after a few bumpy initial weeks), Anna Bautista and Sean Jorgensen time to flex their culinary muscles. But was it worth the wait?
The Food
Open from morning until late and serving food throughout, Highline treads a blurry line somewhere between American diner and contemporary Western. Come for lunch and you’ll find hearty pastrami sandwiches; at dinner and you’ll likely eat chicken and waffles alongside silver dollar clams (below, RMB158).
It’s a concept tailor-made for Shanghai. A ‘lounge diner’ that flowers into a hip nocturnal destination on weekends, a place very much to see and be seen by the well-to-do.
Heavyweight chefs Jorgensen and Bautista, just one of whom would be enough to oversee Highline’s kitchen, ensure the food is relatively consistent. On some nights it dazzles, other times it’s just good.
In the former category is the prime rib roast (RMB888/458, 500/250g), a juicy, M5 wagyu homage to Lawry’s Prime Rib lavished with a six-hour roast and backed up with sides of creamed spinach, mashed potato and horseradish cream. Get this to share with one other person if you order the 250g portion, two others if the larger 500g. Anticipate lying prone for at least two hours if tackling the thing solo.
Those inclined towards indulgence would do well with the crispy buffalo spice pig ears strips with ranch dip (RMB58), best paired with the bitter yet balanced Agavoni (RMB120, above). This tequila, Campari and vermouth-based concoction is by far the best cocktail on Highline’s menu.
Other than that there’s the chicken and waffles (RMB128, de-boned for your convenience) served with spicy butter and maple syrup. The bacon cheeseburger (RMB98) is also tasty, but not essential.
Nori Parmesan-dusted sweet potato fries with Korean chili aioli (RMB58) go nicely with everything, though try the hazelnut persimmon and endive salad (RMB78) if you’re saving space for the desserts. Light as air lemon chiffon cake (RMB68) is our favorite.
Food: 2.5/3
The Vibe
Visually, Highline is a treat for any mid-century modern enthusiasts that might be reading – the dining room is fitted with custom-made Danish-esque furniture that is timeless, unfussy and actually comfortable.
These attributes are but half of Highline’s capacity; outside is a large roof terrace and standalone bar, complete with fire pit and palm trees. Naturally, all this lies dormant in Shanghai’s dour winter months. Like its talented duo chefs, Highline is at present revealing but a fraction of its potential.
Vibe: 1.5/2
Total Verdict: 4/5
Price: RMB400-600 per person
Who’s going: the well-heeled of Shanghai
Good for: contemporary Western food, groups, cocktails, dates, special occasions
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