Shanghai Restarant Review: Raw Eatery & Grill

By Betty Richardson, May 13, 2016

The Place

It’s no secret that steak is egregiously overpriced in Shanghai. Since the importation of US and Japanese cattle is prohibited, much of the beef in China hails from Australia, and prices have been raised to keep up with demands.

However, RAW Eatery & Wood Grill, a new restaurant on Yanping Lu, uses its South American heritage as an advantage: by cooking Chilean and Argentinean steaks, which are cheaper.

The Food

We kick things off with Raw’s signature beef tartare (RMB128), which arrives with an enormous, apparently smoked egg yolk on top. We didn’t get any smokiness from the egg, but the seasoning and quality of the meat make this a tasty starter.

That’s not the case for the codfish ceviche (RMB98) with seafood tempura and leche de tigre (‘tiger milk’ sauce), which lacks the brightness and acidity often associated this classic Peruvian sauce.

Steaks are grilled in the restaurant’s ‘Josper’ charcoal oven, a powerful charcoal oven made in Spain, which can reach temperatures of up to 300 degrees Celsius. We had our eye on the holy grail of beefsteaks: a bone-in, dry aged rib eye… but balked when we saw the RMB1,388 price tag (for three to five people, according to the menu).

Instead, we settled with the Argentinean strip loin (bife de chorizo, RMB328), still dry aged. While it delivered in flavor, it was missing a crispy crust – that beautiful Maillard effect that occurs when amino acids caramelize against heat.

Raw’s roast chicken (RMB108) also gets the Josper oven treatment. We loved the spiciness of the sauce, but unfortunately the meat was a little dry – nothing a little pre-brining couldn’t fix.

Food verdict: 1.5/3

The Vibe

Let it be said that where Spanish-speaking people go, good times often follow. A night at Raw starts off quiet, but as the evening progresses, it gradually amps up with the chatter of Spanish and clinking of wine glasses. Quiet and subdued it ain’t, making it ideal for casual dinners or parties.

Vibe verdict: 1/1

Value for Money

Value can certainly be found Raw; our dinner for three people (including alcohol) came to a little over RMB900. We certainly appreciate that they’re bringing good quality Argentinean and Chilean beef to Shanghai’s table, but it would be better if they offered a wider range of cuts to make Raw a steak destination.

Value for Money:1/1