Shanghai Restaurant Review: Xinle All-Day Dining

By Betty Richardson, December 22, 2015

The Place

Set in a renovated two-story house on Xinle Lu, Xinle is a new ‘all day diner’ by joint French and Shanghainese owners Emmanuel Santarromana and Michael Shen. The idea is for Xinle to be a casual, everyday sort of place where you can grab brunch, lunch or dinner without a visit to the ATM beforehand. Local Shanghainese Chef Shi Mingxing has a background in French cooking, and was formerly of Brasserie La Fourchette and Mr & Mrs Bund.

Xinle All-Day Dining Shanghai Restaurant

The Food

Straddling an unusual point between simple French and American comfort food, the food is well executed, generously portioned, comforting and repeat-worthy, if not wildly creative.

There are quick eats like wings (RMB20/30), two eggs and bacon on toast (RMB30), hot truffle French fries (RMB30) or crispy calamari (RMB25/40).We particularly liked their falafel (RMB20/30), which were juicy and crunchy rather than dry.

Xinle All-Day Dining Shanghai Restaurant For bigger appetites, there’s sandwiches, burgers and tartines, like the enormous ‘Xinle chicken’ with country bread, chopped BBQ chicken leg, aioli, mushrooms, arugula and melted emmental cheese – a steal at RMB65.

Xinle All-Day Dining Shanghai Restaurant

Also great value is the daily pasta (RMB55) and crunchy fried halibut with chips (RMB75).

Xinle All-Day Dining Shanghai Restaurant

An exception to Xinle’s bon marché rule are the ribs, with three different glazes to choose from: Jack Daniel’s BBQ, Xinle house glaze or – our favorite – teriyaki. Juicy but still with a lot of bite, they’re served with French fries at a slightly steep RMB190 for three or RMB290 for six.

Xinle All-Day Dining Shanghai Restaurant

Food Verdict: 1.5/3

Vibe

Homely and warm, the vibe is unfussy and welcoming. Downstairs there’s a dinky little bar serving cocktails and wine, and comfy upholstered booths, with more seating and a terrace upstairs. The atmosphere feels like being in a friend’s house, and it fits the local area too.

Vibe Verdict: 1/1

Value for Money

In a city more known for its riotously expensive Western food than value for money, Xinle is a welcome addition to the F&B scene, and one we’ll revisit next time fuss-free lunch or dinner is called for.