Guangzhou Restaurant Review: 435

By Matthew Bossons, August 20, 2019

0 0

The Place

435-logo.jpg
Image by Matt Bossons/That’s

Located south of Grandview Mall in the same trendy neighborhood that houses fan favorites Tristan’s CalMex and Urban Grill, 435 is a hip new eatery that offers Western-style cuisine, cocktails and craft beer.

When we arrive on a rainy Saturday afternoon, a considerable group of selfie-obsessed young women are busy snapping shots in front of the restaurant’s black and white exterior.

It’s obvious before we even enter that the place is popular, and after stepping inside it becomes clear that this popularity is due to 435’s eclectic design, which draws heavily on classic Americana. There is a hatchet on the wall next to a Hot Wheels banner, both situated above the restaurant’s numerical name – which is brightly lit up.

435-toys.jpg
Image by Matt Bossons/That’s

Other design accents include a risqué neon light, surfboard, crocodile skull and foot-tall action figure of Greedo, from Star Wars. (We weren’t lying when we said the place was eclectic.)

The low lighting and casual atmosphere immediately suck us in, but we know what you’re thinking – how is the food?

The Food

We’ll get this out of the way right off the bat: The menu here is littered with gibberish translations and, if you can’t read Chinese, you’d be wise to visit with a Chinese friend. To be fair, 435’s staffers are helpful and do their best to describe items, but we find that lots gets lost in translation.

We decide to order the ‘Périgord truffle foie gras beef burger’ (RMB98), ‘French oil seal duck leg burger’ (actual menu name, RMB68) and two beverages – Drake’s Brewing’s ‘Extra Brut’ and Cigar City’s ‘After Sesh’ – from 435’s craft beer selection.

345-burger-1.jpg
Image by Matt Bossons/That’s

The truffle and foie gras burger does not disappoint and lives up to expectations (as it should, considering the price). The foie gras imbues the black-bun burger with its trademark richness, while the gold leaf-topped truffle paste blends well with the savory beef and processed cheese. Also featuring are lettuce and green apple slices, the latter of which adds to the dynamic range of flavors and helps elevate the burger to near-legendary status.

The bizarrely translated duck burger is where everything goes south. Also set within a black bun, this sandwich arrives packed with lettuce, apple slices and a whole duck leg – bones still in. 

duck-burger-1.jpg
Image by Matt Bossons/That’s

Unquestionably a hassle, the only way to properly eat this thing is to cut the meat off the duck’s leg bones and reinsert it into the burger. The process is frustrating and the end result is an anticlimactic burger that we would not order again – despite its passable taste profile. (Pro tip, duck lovers: Stick to 13Factories’ epic minced duck burger.)

Although we do not try it, 435’s ‘caramel bacon sausage burger’ (RMB48) looks almost as annoying to eat, if the menu’s photos are any indication. The ‘American classic beef burger’ (RMB68), on the other hand, looks true to form.

The Vibe

435-wall-art.jpg
Image by Matt Bossons/That’s

Despite our bony mishap with the duck burger, as well as the menu’s high prices and poor translations, we genuinely enjoy our visit to 435. Most of our intrigue with the place can probably be chalked up to the trendy design and ambience – although it’s worth noting the staff are friendly and the music decent.

Price: RMB150
Who’s going: selfie snappers, carnivorous types
Good for: bony surprises, a darn good foie gras burger
Nearest metro: Tiyu Xilu (Exit B), 10 minutes’ walk

Open daily, 11.30am-10pm; see listing for 435.

more news

Guangzhou Food & Drink Gossip: January 2020

The monthly scoop on Guangzhou's ever-evolving food and beverage scene!

Guangzhou Food & Drink Gossip: December 2019

The monthly scoop on Guangzhou's ever-evolving food and beverage scene!

Who Won What at the That's Food & Drink Awards 2019 in Guangzhou

On November 27, we held our annual Food & Drink Awards ceremony in Guangzhou and we’re happy to report it was a resounding success.

Guangzhou Food & Drink Gossip: October 2019

The monthly scoop on Guangzhou's ever-evolving food and beverage scene!

Voting Opens Oct 8 for That's Food & Drink Awards 2019 in Guangzhou

It's that time of year again, foodies – time to vote for your spots to wine and dine in our annual That's Food & Drink Awards!

5 Reasons This Italian Restaurant is Your New Food Haven in Guangzhou

Guangzhou is no stranger to Italian cuisine.

0 User Comments

In Case You Missed It…

We're on WeChat!

Scan our QR Code at right or follow us at ThatsGuangzhou for events, guides, giveaways and much more!

7 Days in Guangzhou With thatsmags.com

Weekly updates to your email inbox every Wednesday

Subscribe

Download previous issues

Never miss an issue of That's PRD!

Visit the archives

Get the App. Your essential China city companion.