Beijing Bar Review: Inception

By Andrew Braun, November 9, 2018

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In a city of over 20 million people seemingly on a nonstop bustle, finding a quiet spot to kick back, have a drink and turn off your brain for an hour or four is a luxury that seems to be in demand. And in fact, the capital has recently seen an influx of expertly curated cocktail establishments with a forceful devotion for the craft. Now, stepping up to bat is Inception, Dongzhimen’s newest addition to the roster – and the 1920s-style lounge bar is swinging for the fences. 

The dark and moody pub design out front suggests a completely different interior than what we are met with. Stepping inside, we're greeted by a bulldog effigy donning a pair of shades – not sure how that ties into the idea here – and the smooth sound of jazz, of course. What else would a bar so rooted in the diehard theme of vintage Prohibition-era lounges possibly be playing? On our way to the bar, we get a whiff of Cuban cigars, which only adds to the involuntary sense of nostalgia. The interior is expansive but dimly lit, evoking an intimate feel, and hosts two distinct areas – a large foyer with a mixture of eclectic seating and a small stage for live entertainment, as well as a lower level that leads up to a wellstocked wooden bar. 

inception-8-v.jpgIf the interior seems meticulously detailed, the skill level of the bartenders might exceed it. We opt for the classics and order an Old Fashioned (RMB85) – a drink that is easily made but not so easily made well – which was up to par to this Kentucky boy’s taste buds. Our second drink of choice is the sweet and subtle Ada’s Kiss (RMB85), essentially a vodka cranberry, smoked with oak and served beside a rose encased in a glass bell jar – giving a more interesting take on the cocktail as old as time. 

inception-2.jpgFor those that fancy the avant-garde drinking experience, choose from any of Inception’s ‘special cocktails,’ like the Taste of the South (RMB80) – dark rum, black sesame paste and chocolate bitters – served artfully in a wooden cube-shaped cup, or the Amber Room, made with jasmine flower-infused gin, passionfruit puree and tea liqueur, served in a treasure chest (which has us questioning the theme here again.) 

If cocktails and liquors aren’t your poison of choice, there’s a wine cellar with a wide selection of bottles to choose from and coffee for those late nights out – or simply as an afternoon pick-me-up. 

After knocking back a couple drinks and savoring our time away from the noisy streets, we get the sense that Inception is carefully crafting a reputation that’ll be around for a while. 

No, really, if we’ve learned anything from this city’s adoration for a good concept lounge bar – it’ll be around forever.

inception-7.jpg[Images via Andrew Braun/That's]


See a listing for Inception and read more Beijing Bar & Restaurant Reviews

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