Installed in the space that used to be Spanish restaurant Samfaina, The Up is a fairly classy bistro serving a primarily surf’n’turf menu of seafood and steaks along with a large selection of imported and shucked-to-order oysters.
Downstairs is an intimate bar for waiting guests to pass the time with a cocktail or two before dinner. Upstairs, the décor follows the same scheme as its predecessor Samfaina, with blonde wood accents, tasteful beige tablecloths and a vaulted white wood ceiling.
In the way of starters it almost seems rude not to order oysters; they’ve got a whole menu of types ranging from RMB37 each for Tasmanians to RMB88 for French Tarbouriechs. Other appetizers included a well-seasoned beef Carpaccio (RMB130) with extra virgin olive oil, balsamic reduction and pistachios.
Slightly more substantial was a crab leg salad (RMB150), a riff off a classic Niçoise with thick wedges of soft-boiled egg and crabmeat doused with honey-tinged balsamic dressing.
Mains stick to old-timey classics like Bouillabaisse (RMB560, 2 people), garlic butter baked king prawns (RMB170), lemon, garlic and chive silver cod (RMB280) and live Canadian Lobster Thermidor (RMB480).
Luckily, the aforementioned lobster’s size justified its price, and came topped with grilled Gruyère cheese and cream filling, which for our tastes could have done with just a dash more brandy.
Compared to other steak houses round Shanghai, The Ups ‘turf’ options start at pretty reasonable RMB256 for grain-fed certified Angus filet (8oz/227g) and round off at RMB800 per kg for an enormous tomahawk cut to feed four.
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We were pleasantly surprised by the simple and delicate flavors present in The Up’s rendition of seafood penne (RMB110), served al dente with a generous portion of kalamata olives, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and jumbo shrimps.
Desserts too were simple and thoughtfully executed, with just enough originality to avoid being predictable.
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A martini glass of tiramisu (RMB60) had a subtle, lemon laced mascarpone, and a chocolate loaf bar (RMB60) possessed dense, nutty texture with an intriguing Christmassy hint of German lebkuchen cookies.
Overall, The Up is a good option for a classy and relaxed night out, with consistently good food and just enough glamour to make the experience worthwhile.
Price: Approx RMB400 per person
Who’s going: Young locals, for the moment
Good for: Dates, entertaining guests, special occasions
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