It is rare when a single mall plays host to two ramen powerhouses, each with its own illustrious name and noodle slinging technique. In the basement of the IAPM, the wildly popular, red-lacquered second branch of Ippudo draws in crazed masses. However, Menya Musashi upstairs is quietly building up a fanbase of its own. The space is small in stature, but may prove a viable challenger in the fight for Shanghai’s stomach.
Named, rather grandly, after legendary samurai Miyamoto Musashi – renowned for swordsmanship and the still studied strategy manual Book of Five Rings – his namesake venue sees great success in Japan (where it was originally founded in Shinjuku in 1996) and Singapore.
This first foray onto Mainland territory is more demure than its splashier competition downstairs. Little more than a long open kitchen with bar seating and five tables tucked into a corner of the above-ground food court, there are no bells or whistles beneath the fluorescent lighting. Everything focuses on the steamy ballet taking place behind the counter, where lean, lithe chefs twist and turn in infinite ramen motion.
It seems a simple enough equation – noodle, broth and toppings - but a good bowl requires balance and distinguishing detail. Menya is famed in Japan for a porky soup so thick it must be stirred constantly to prevent burning. The resulting concoction is of near-gelatinous quality, silky on the tongue and boasting the rumbling heft of concentrated meat and smoke.
In a small stroke of genius, the noodles have a unique shape that takes advantage of this hefty potage. Curlier, thicker and boasting a slightly fluted center, these tendrils have a satisfying chew and effectively maximize the amount of broth clinging to surface area. Each time the chopsticks hit the lips, revel in the elastic noodle and its brawny, ichorous coating. Experience this meld in original Shirobukotsu form (RMB42-48) or the Akabukotsu version (RMB45-49), which heats things up with a splash of chili oil. Kurobukotsu (RMB45-50) – an addition of scallion and onion oil – overwhelms the broth’s subtle sweetness.
As for the roasted pork on top, diners can choose three versions: marinated, sliced or BBQ (Singapore and Japan get a broader range). Sliced is weakest by far - the dry, papery pieces overwhelmed by its superior counterparts. The BBQ rounds are more up to the task of balancing the bowls, but we were fondest of marinated pork. The thick pieces come steeped in a subtle concoction of soy and anise, interacting well with the perfect soft-boiled egg, scallion and greens.
The bowls are of manageable size, so it is likely one has room for a petite side dish. Skip the forgettable dumplings (RMB18) - they are just filler - and chicken wings (RMB22), battered by an overly enthusiastic hand. Head instead towards sesame spinach (RMB15); sweetly nutty, tart and laced with veins of nostril-clearing wasabi. Also luscious is marinated flatfish (RMB30), the succulent, flaky flesh topped with crisp skin, charred with a blowtorch.
But it is really the noodles that will delight diners in need of heartening meals to chase chills from their bones. The atmosphere may be less festive than Ippudo, but Menya’s offerings are more than up to the task of bolstering our soul.
//L5-509, IAPM Mall, Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu淮海中路999号环贸广场L5-509, 近陕西南路 (6495 0207)
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