Behind the Waldorf Astoria on the Bund, Catalan cuisine is being served in a setting fit for any admirer of eastern Spanish culture. Irregular bubble shapes give character to the entrance doors, which open into a magnificent dining hall. The two-story-high whorled ceiling, supported by broad columns and walls paneled with mirrors, make the crisp white space feel double its size. Vibrant yellow, red and blue stools line the bar, whose mosaic covering of silver and glass tiles is reminiscent of the colorful salamander perched over the kitchen entrance. Travel up a dramatic flight of stairs for the more casual, low-lit setting of another bar and lounge area.
Gaudi’s influence on the restaurant is undeniable, as it should be – it is modeled after the architect’s La Pedrera, a wave-like, modernist-style building located in Barcelona. This same Spanish concept was cooked up three years ago in Hangzhou and, after overwhelming success there, the owners – a Chinese couple who spent 20 years in Spain – decided it was time to test big-city waters.
Tapas and desserts are the highlights. Arriving on a stone slab, beguiling grilled vegetables soaked in Spanish paprika oil (RMB58) are perfect when dipped into the accompanying aioli or romesco sauce. Thin, crisp slices of homemade toast brushed with tomato and olive oil (RMB25) and a bowl of garlic and parsley oil-coated pan-fried button mushrooms (RMB48) are light, satisfying nibbles to pave the way for the hearty seafood paella (RMB120/person): rich scoops of subtly spiced, al dente grains topped with shellfish and part of a tender baby lobster. Black paella with squid ink (RMB120/person) is too salty, but slabs of tender Australian beef steak (RMB268/250 grams) – cooked on hot stone in front of diners and served with chopped veggies, paprika potato and a demi glace sauce – are just right.
Everything on the Mediterranean menu deserves a glass of wine from their cellar (prices start at RMB48), including the stunning, homemade desserts. Decorated with shimmering powder, the chocolate gold bar (RMB58) melts as soon as it touches the tongue, while solid, dark bonbons (RMB58) open up to a playful surprise of strawberry or mango jelly. Don’t leave without diving into sweet Catalan creme with berries and cinnamon powder (RMB48). Smooth and sexy, this final bite of Barcelona summarizes our experience at this Catalonian class act.
0 User Comments