There is something disconcerting about visiting La Pizza and ordering a meal completely void of dough. It feels like asking for a salad at Home Plate or going to Mix for its refined music selection. But given that we all know the restaurant’s pizza to be some of the finest in the capital, there seems little point in throwing further superlatives toward its namesake dish.
And, as it happens, the chain’s latest outlet would probably rather we didn’t. That’s because – as we witnessed with the opening of its buffet restaurant (which was noticeably short on slices of the good stuff) – La Pizza appears determined to avoid being typecast.
This new branch, on the ground floor of SOHO Shangdu, offers pizza, of course. But there is a concerted focus on higher-end options and dishes usually found in the exclusive terrain of secondi. The interior also takes on a slightly classier, minimalist tone of clean color palettes, stone and dark wood, all set against a backdrop of industrious chefs. Weather (and pollution) permitting, we might also advise dining outside among the jagged architectural shapes of the CBD.
Already familiar with large segments of La Pizza’s menu, we select some offerings created exclusively for the new premises, the highlight of which is the swordfish and tuna with lemon (RMB108). The latter is splendidly meaty while the former is delicate and lightly cooked; both feature a hearty coating of olive oil and ample citrus tones.
The seafood rice (RMB98) meanwhile, is infused with rich tomato and, thanks to the use of acquerello rice, less sticky than many of Beijing’s inferior risottos. Each grain has made the long journey from Italy to suit the tastes of Neapolitan head chef Giuseppe De Stefano, who relies heavily on imported ingredients across the diverse menu. Seeing as the new items revolve around seafood (and Beijing is noticeably lacking in the reliable water source department), that is probably a very good thing.
We conclude, as any good Italian would, with some truly excellent coffee (RMB20-30) and a drop of limoncello (RMB40), before departing with full, contented stomachs. And not a slice of pizza in sight.
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